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5.1
5.1.1.
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2.
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1
angle n ; at right angle
bond v , ; - , ; bonded fibre fabrics
braid n , ()
cause n , ; , ; v , , ; : to cause shrinkage;
cling (to) v (clung) , ; ( ), to cling to the body , clinging fabrics
consumer n : consumer goods, consumer products
derive v , ;
distortion n
edge n , : firmly woven edges, lengthwise edge
felt v , ; ; ;
filament n
fine , ; fineness n - ,
flexibility n , ; ; ; flexible , ,
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float n , .. , , ;
friction : to reduce friction, to withstand friction
grain n (), : lengthwise grain, crosswise grain, bias grain
herring-bone ( ..)
to hold in tension, loop tension; to exert tension co
hosiery n ,
insert v , ; insert n : lace insert; insertion n ( )
interlace v , , : to interlace warps with the filling
interlock v , : to interlock loops
lengthwise , ; crosswise adv ; : lengthwise, crosswise direction
loop n ; v , : to distort the loop structure
lustre n , , ; lustrous ,
mat n , ; v , ; ,
moisture n , , ; moist , ; moisten v (),
nap n 1. ; 2. : napped cloth
neat , ; ; ( ): a neat dress, a neat finish, a neat pocket
needle n ;
net n ; mesh fabric
pile n : pile cloth; pile surface
ravel v , , (); to ravel out ();
release v , ;
resist v , ; resistance n , ; resistant , , ; abrasion resistance ; crease resistance ; shrink resistant
rib n , ,
ridge ( ), ;
selvage n ,
shrink v (shrank, shrunk) ; ; shrinkage n : to shrink after laundering; to shrink from cold
slippage n ( ): to cause yarn slippage smooth , : smooth fabric, smooth face
spin v (spun, span, spun) - ; ,
staple n ()
strength n , ; tensile strength -
stretch v , , : to stretch gloves, fabrics, stretchy material, to stretch one's shoes by wearing
surface n : smooth surface, uneven surface
tension n , ; :
yarn n ; , : cotton yarn, elastic yarn
wale n ( ); narrow wale
warp n ; warp-knitted fabric
weft n , ; weft-knitted fabric
warp float ; weft float
weave v (wove, woven) ; ; weaving n , ; woven fabric , non-woven fabric
basket w. ;
honeycomb w. .;
pile w. .;
plain weave ; .;
satin w. .;
twill w. .
.1. , ,
(Be sure you distinguish between different meanings of the verb to run)
1. , ;
2. , , ;
3. , ...;
4. , ();
5. ;
6. ( );
7. (, ),
. 2. .
to run in the wash,
to run through loop carriers,
to run crosswise,
to run classes,
to run across the surface.
If this cloth were held to the light, the yarns would seem to run all one way - lengthwise.
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She runs knitting classes.
Wash your sweater carefully by hand in cool water to see if no colour runs.
Her stocking ran.
With a close-pile fur use a very soft hairbrush to run across the surface (to comb the hairs).
A sportsman who plays tennis or runs regularly, for instance, says that by the end of the week he probably has seven different sets of garments ready to launder/clean and many of those require hand washing.
To determine if yarn slippage will occur, run your fingernail firmly over the fabric near the cut end
.3.
TEXTILE FIBRES
1. The dictionary states that the word textile is derived from the Latin word texere - to weave; but a wider meaning than simply that of weaving must be accepted since that is only one of various ways of making fabrics.
2. It is now generally accepted that a textile is a fabric made from fibres but, the fibres may either be converted into yarn first and then the yarns put together in one of a variety of ways to make fabrics, or the fibres can be converted directly into a fabric.
3. Not all fibres though are suitable for textile purposes because a textile fibre must possess sufficient length, fineness, strength and flexibility to be suitable for manufacture into fabrics. The terms Filament and staple. represent the two basic forms of textile fibres.
4. Filament is the name given to a fibre of continuous length, that is to say it is long enough to be used in a fabric without increasing its length by adding other fibres on to it.
5. An example of a natural filament is silk; the cocoon of a silkworm can contain about 3000 m of continuous twin filaments. Staple is the name given to fibres of limited length. To make a continuous length of yarn, staple fibres have to be twisted together.
6. An example of a natural staple fibre is cotton. If a yarn from an ordinary cotton fabric is untwisted, it will be seen to break down into fine fibres about one inch long. Yarn can consist of either staple fibres, or of filaments put together. Filaments merely need grouping in order to produce the thickness of yarn required, the length is already there in the individual filaments. Grouping of filaments is achieved by twisting them together. Staple fibres have to be twisted to make them cohere into a continuous length of yarn.
7. The type of yarn exerts a strong influence on the texture and appearance of the fabric. In general, filament yarns are thin, smooth and lustrous and staple fibre yarns are thicker, fibrous and non-lustrous. An excellent example of these different characteristics can be seen by comparing the fibrous nature of the outer wool fabric of a coat or suit jacket with the smooth lustrous surface of the lining of the garment. The wool fabric being staple and the lining being filament.
.1. ,
1. A textile is a fabric always made from fibres.
2. All fibres are suitable for textile purposes.
3. Filament is a fibre of continuous length.
4. Staple is a fibre of limited length.
5. The type of yarn influences the texture and appearance of the fabric.
.2. :
1. It is generally accepted that a textile is a fabric made from fibres. Not all fibres are suitable for textile purposes. Why?
2. Filament is the name given to a fibre of continuous length. What does it mean?
3. Staple is the name given to fibres of limited length. How can a continuous length of yarn be made?
.4.
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5.1.
5.1.2.
to be going to
1. To be going to
2. (.1.)
3. (.1. .3.)
4. (.1.)
5. (.4.)
.1.
a) , , , ,
b) , ,
c) , , ,
d) ,
.1.
TEXT FOUR
A. This fabric is stretchy and comfortable to wear. The fabric is formed by a series of interlocking loops. Weft-knitted fabric has the loops running crosswise and the stretch is greater across the fabric than down it. Warp-knitted fabric is made by forming the loops lengthwise and is more stable and durable than the weft-knitted type.
B. This is the most usual method of making fabric, in which two sets of yarns (the warp and the weft) are woven together to produce a fabric. The warp threads run lengthwise down the fabric and they are crossed at right angles by the weft threads. The weave can be either plain or patterned according to the arrangement of the threads.
This is produced by machine to imitate a fabric which was originally hand made. The fabric has geometrically shaped holes outlined by yarn. The yarns are held together by knots where they intersect.
D. The fabric is made from short lengths of fibres, usually wool or cotton, which are compressed and bonded together by heat and moisture. The fabric has no grain and is quite weak in wear. Wool felt will shrink if it is washed.
Read the text. Match each of the four headings below with its parts, describing different methods of making fabric:
1. Weaving
2. Knitting
3. Felting
4. Netting.
.2.
WOVEN AND KNITTED FABRICS
In their simple form these consist of two series of threads, warp and weft, interlaced at right angles to each other. The warp threads run the length of the fabric and the weft threads run across the width of the fabric.
The edge at each long side of a woven fabric is called the selvedge and it is commonly of a different construction or appearance, to the rest of the fabric because its function is not only to provide a firm neat edge finish to the fabric for the sake (, ) of appearance, but also to provide a secure grip for finishing machinery.
Figure 5 shows plain weave, which is the simplest form of interlacing. The section drawings at the side and the bottom of the plan show that warp and weft interlace with each other in a similar manner. If the threads are closely spaced it can be seen that this form of interlacing gives a very tight structure because the alternate interfacings give no room for sideways movement of the threads. The draping properties of such a structure would depend entirely on the flexibility of the fibres and yarns.
If tension is exerted diagonally much more movement is obtained because the force is not now directed along a yarn direction but is pulling across both series of threads causing a 'scissor' action. This diagonal direction is known as BIAS. True bias is an angle of 45, i.e. exactly between warp and weft.
Figure 5. Woven Fabric
In using a woven fabric for clothing, due regard must be paid to the GRAIN of the fabric. The grain is represented by warp and weft. If the fabric is true, the warp runs straight lengthways and the weft runs across the fabric at 90 to the warp. Garments are usually made up so that the warp runs vertically down the garment as it is worn and the weft horizontally across it. Care must be taken to ensure firstly that the fabric is 'true' and then that the pattern pieces are correctly related to grain.
Knitted fabrics consist of a structure formed by interlocking loops of yarn. Figure 6 shows a simple weft-knitted structure. This term is used because the yarn is fed () horizontally to form rows of loops which are individually locked vertically with the corresponding loop in the next horizontal row. This is the type of knitting which can be produced by hand using two knitting 'needles' and one ball of yarn.
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The stability of a simple knitted fabric is much less than that of an ordinary woven fabric because any tension exerted on it will never be along the line of a yarn, but will distort () the loop structure so that the fabric can be stretched in any direction.
This simple structure can also be unravelled very easily from the top downwards, and if the yarn forming a loop is broken it immediately releases loops so that a 'ladder' quickly forms which will widen and lengthen under tension.
The instability of simple types of knitted fabric was a limiting factor in their use for garments. At one time hosiery and underwear formed the main bulk ( ) of garments made from this type of fabric because shapes could be kept simple and the stretch of the knitted structure enabled a close fit to be obtained without complicated cutting or styling.
Knitted fabrics are now competing with woven fabrics in many clothing uses due to the fact that improved machines and techniques have produced knitted fabrics in complex structures which in some cases are equal to woven fabrics in stability.
.3.
1. What two series of threads woven fabrics consist of in their simple form?
2. What selvedge is?
3. What its functions are?
4. What happens if tension is exerted diagonally?
5. What is the diagonal direction called?
6. What "true fabric" means?
7. What "true bias" means?
8. Whether the grain is represented by warp and weft?
9. What is the difference between woven and knitted fabrics?
.4.
A. LACE AND NET FABRICS.
The manufacture of these was formerly a hand technique but they are now mostly machine made. The basic net structure is shown in figure and two basic structural points are important at this stage. The first is that in this form of fabric yarns are actually twisted round each other and do not form straight lines. The second point is that lace and net are 'open' type structures which tend to be dimensionally unstable if tension is exerted on them.
In this respect these fabrics behave similarly to simple knitted fabrics, but whereas compound knitted structures can be made close, compact and stable, lace structures must remain relatively open to preserve their character. For this reason lace is mostly used for decoration in the form of edgings and insets.
B. BRAIDED FABRICS.
These are produced by interlacing yarns diagonally in a form of "plaiting". Braid is used for decorations. The diagonal course of the yarns normally makes braid easily extended in the length direction with a corresponding contraction in width. Woven "braid" is often used for stabilizing edges of knitted garments
FELT.
Felt has been used by man for centuries and its manufacture is made possible by the fact that wool, and some other animal fibres, possess a natural tendency to felt or mat together under the influence of heat, moisture and mechanical pressure. A fabric produced in this way is entirely without grain because the flat webs of fibres are non-directional, i.e. the fibres point in all directions.
If felt is to be strong and stable the fibres must be so consolidated that the material is stiff and heavy with very little draping property.
If felt is made soft and supple its properties of tensile strength, resistance to abrasion and distortion are too low to be of practical value for normal garment use.
The main apparel use of felt is in the manufacture of hats where its capacity to be shaped by heat and moisture can be exploited.
D. BONDED FIBRE FABRICS.
The development of bonded fibre fabrics is comparatively recent and is based on the use of fibres other than wool, in fact man-made fibres are the principal fibres used for these fabrics. As they do not possess an inherent felting property some form of chemical bonding is necessary.
For general fabric use bonded fibre fabrics still suffer from the same disadvantages as felt with the result that they are not suitable for "top" fabrics in clothing. However, they have found considerable use as interlinings and this method of manufacture can produce a wider range of materials at a much lower price than is possible with felt.
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behave v , ; majority n ;
crisp ,
entirely adv 1. , , ; 2. , ,
hand n ( ); ;
interlining ;
glazed cotton
ply ; three-ply ;
rough , ; coarse ;
sheer , ( );
suffer (from) v , ;
supple , ;
visibility n . ;
web n 1. , 2. , , ; 3. , ;
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CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVES
There are three basic types of weave, namely, plain, twill, satin. Weaves are named according to the system or design followed in interlacing warp and filling yarns.
Plain Weave.
In this, the simplest weave, the filling is passed over one warp yarn and under the next. The second time across, the filling passes over the warp yarns it went under, and under the warps it went over on the previous row. The third time across is a repetition of the first, the fourth repeats the second, and so on. Plain-weave cloths can be cleaned easily, and when firm and closely woven, they wear well.
Variations in the plain weave are accomplished by using yarns of different fibres, sizes, twists, and/or colours. Several methods can be used to make a plain-weave fabric more attractive. The first is to produce a ribbed effect by using fillings much heavier than warps, as in poplin, or by using warps much heavier than fillings, as in dimity. The former method is the most common. A striped effect is produced by alternation of fine and heavy warps at regular intervals.
Twill Weave.
Twill is the most durable of all weaves. In this weave the filling yarns are interlaced with the warps in such a way as to form ridges across the fabric. These diagonals, called wales, may run from upper left to lower right, from upper right to lower left, or both ways in the same cloth. The most common variation of the twill weave is the herringbone. In this weave the diagonal runs in one direction for a few rows and then reverses and runs in the opposite direction. Twill weaves usually make fabrics closer in texture, heavier, and stronger than do plain weaves. This is why twills are so suitable for men's clothing fabrics.
Satin Weaves.
Satin weaves are a group of structures designed to produce a smooth fabric surface without twill markings. The word satin creates a mental picture of a smooth lustrous fabric. The reason is that more warps than fillings are exposed on the right side. If the fabric is turned over, more fillings than warps are visible.
Satins are not very durable if subjected to much abrasion.
.2. ( )
Types of Weave
The weave affects the character of the... (cloth, clothing, style).
A... (basket, satin, plain) weave is used most; and when the weaving is close, a plain woven material will suggest durability whatever the yarn.
The... (basket, rib, honeycomb) weave, a variation of the plain, gives a texture stripe to the cloth, however small the threads.
A basket weave suggests... (durability, strength, looseness).
Twills, when made of smooth yarns, produce patterned effect by the diagonal line.
Materials woven with a satin weave are high in... (lustre, flexibility, durability) and have a very smooth surface.
The gauze weave used in marquisette gives a transparency () that is accompanied by durability.
The pile weave used in... (velveteen, silk, crepe) gives depth and elegance.
.1.
1. Explain the difference between lace and felt fabrics.
2. What is weaving?
3. How is the plain weave made?
4. What are the advantages of the plain weave?
5. In what ways may the plain weave be varied?
6. Explain the construction of a twill weave.
7. In what respect does the satin weave differ from the twill weave?
8. Which of the three standard weaves is the most durable? Why? b) the most beautiful? Why?
9. Which of the three standard weaves is the most beautiful? Why?
10.What is the difference between filament and staple fibres? b) woven and knitted fabrics?
11.What is the difference between woven and knitted fabrics?
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affinity n : affinity for dyestuffs, affinity for water
application n 1. , ; 2. ; applyv 1. , ; 2. , ; written application, application of natural fibres; to apply for aid
artificial ; artificial silk, flowers
bleach v ,
colourfast , ( ); colour-fastness (to light) n -
comb v ,
crease n , ; v 1. , , 2. ; to crease easily, crease-resistant
damage n , , ; v ,
develop v , , ;
development n , , , , , (); to develop dress (colour) sense,, to develop one's individual image/style, to develop research projects
dressing n 1. ; 2. ; 3.
dye n , , ; v ; dyestuff n , : to dye one's hair, to dye smth red, to dye well
fairly adv , ;
flammable , , ; inflammable , ; (in)flammability n ; flameproof ; flame-retardant ( )
flax (); linen n 1. ; 2. , ; 3. ; linen fabrics, table-linen
fleece n 1. ; 2.
fluffy , : fluffy surface, material
furnishings n (pl) 1. , ; 2. , 3. ,
impart v , ;
iron v ; to iron clothes, to iron with a hot iron
irritate v ; irritant ,
mention v , ;
odourless
perspiration , ; to perspire v ;
property n 1. , ; 2. : chemical properties,
pure a 1. , ; 2. ( ); purification n 1. , ; purify v - (); purity n , ; impurity 1. , , pure silk,
provide v 1. (with) , ; 2. , ; 3. (for) ; provided (that) ; to provide stability, to provide additional warmth, to provide another layer of fabric
raw , ;
remove v , ();
repellent ; water-repellent ,
resilience n , ; resilient , ; lack of resilience
retention n ; shape retention, moisture retention
retting n ,
ripe , ;
rot v ,
scorch v , to scorch linen in ironing
scutch v ()
severe a 1. , ( , ), 2. , ( ), severe test ;
set v , ; permanent set properties
slack , , ; slackly twisted yarns, to knit slackly
soil v , ; to soil one's clothes
springiness n , ; springy ,
stain n ; v , ;
starch v
stiff , , ; stiffness n , ; ;stiff shoes (when new)
tasteless ;
tiny ,
treat v 1. , ; 2.treatment 1. ; 2. ; to treat fabrics with, finishing treatment
wax n ; attr. ; v : to wax thread, to wax floors, wax content
workmanship n 1. , ; 2. ;
withstand v 1. , ; 2. , ; to withstand laundering treatments, to withstand abrasion
wrinkle n , ; v (); to iron out the wrinkles in a dress, to fit without a wrinkle; to wrinkle a dress
.3. ,
COTTON
This is the most versatile and the most widely used textile fibre, possessing more 'ideal' properties than any other fibre. Cotton is widely available and is the cheapest natural fibre used for clothing. It is produced on a bush which is widely grown in sub-tropical regions throughout the world.
The bolls, which are the flower seed () capsules, open when ripe revealing a fluffy mass of fibres and they are picked either by hand or by machine. The fibres are separated from the seeds by ginning, a machine process, which quickly and conveniently makes the fibres available for textile use.
Cotton in its raw state is composed of 90% cellulose and a small amount of wax, it is usually a creamy off-white colour although there are some varieties which are almost brown. When purified the fibre is pure white, highly absorbent, tasteless and odourless, very smooth and soft, non-irritant and cool to the touch. It is ideal therefore for all clothing uses because the properties just mentioned make it comfortable and it has no objectionable wearing properties. In addition to its purity the fibre is very chemically stable when purified. It can be boiled, or sterilized, without disintegration, it is resistant to damage by alkalis so that severe laundering treatments can be withstood. It has good resistance to heat so that abnormal care in ironing, pressing or drying is not necessary. The absorbency of the pure fibre and its chemical stability give it a good affinity for dyes and its whiteness enables a wide range of colours to be applied. The fibre in its normal state is not lustruous but the chemical treatment known as mercerization can produce a permanent lustre on yarns or fabrics when required. Since cotton fibre is fairly inelastic, most cotton fabrics wrinkle easily.
The chemical stability of cotton enables a wide range of finishing treatments to be applied to produce specific performance properties such as water-repellency, flame-resistance, crease-resistance, 'drip-dry" properties, weather and rot resistance, and 'permanent set' properties.
Cotton has two main disadvantages:
1. Lack of resilience. Though cotton is strong it has very little elasticity and fibre does not resist deformation so that cotton fabrics tend to crease easily.
2. Inflammability. Cotton burns very readily. Chemical treatments which will make cotton fabrics flame-resistant can be applied.
THE ADVANTAGES OF MERCERIZED COTTONS
If a cotton fabric is to have a smooth surface, it is mercerized after it has been bleached. The process of mercerizing was discovered by John Mercer about the middle of the nineteenth century. Mercerization is a special treatment of cottons by a caustic soda solution. Mercerization gives cotton fabrics definite advantages
1. They do not soil so readily as unmercerized cottons. It is because their yarns are smoother and rounder.
2. Mercerized cottons are easier to iron than unmercerized cottons.
3. They are more absorbent than unmercerized cottons. And more absorbent fabrics are more comfortable to wear than less absorbent ones.
4. Mercerized cottons resemble silk and wool because of their lustre.
Notes:
boll -
ginning -
.1.
1. What is mercerization?
2. Why do mercerized cottons soil not so readily as unmercerized cottons?
3. Are mercerized cottons easier to iron?
4. How will you explain that absorbent fabrics are more comfortable than less absorbent ones?
.4. .
,
FLAX
1. This is the name of the fibre from which linen is made. Although it would appear that flax has been used by man for textiles for as long as cotton this fibre is much more restricted and specialised in use and does not have the versatility of cotton and is a more expensive fibre.
2. Flax is a bast fibre, being obtained from the stalks of the linen plant which can be grown in many parts of the world in almost any climate. The fibres are loosened from the stalk by a process known as retting, the immersion of bundles of stalks in slow-moving water.
3. After retting the bundles are dried and then scutching takes place. This is a mechanical beating or breaking process whereby the woody parts of the stalks are broken leaving the long bundles of fibres intact.
4. Flax fibres are very long. Flax fibres are much longer and thicker than cotton fibres and their thickness is irregular. Preparation of the fibres consists of splitting the bundles of fibres, as obtained from the stalks, into individual long fibres and removing waste and broken fibres. Yarns spun from flax tend to be uneven because of the length and thickness of the fibres. A special technique of spinning has to be used for the yarns, whereby the fibre cells are loosened so that the yarn can be drawn out to the requisite fineness.
5. Flax is a cellulosic fibre, as is cotton, but it has a higher wax content which gives the fibre a distinctive lustre. Purifications of the fibre must retain sufficient wax for the development of lustre and this entails much more care and expense than the purification of cotton and cannot be carried out as simply as with cotton.
6. Versatility. The natural lustre of flax is developed in linen damask fabrics used for table wear. The beauty and natural lustre of these fabrics is well known.
7. The strength and durability of the fibre make the fabrics attractive. The high strength of flax made it suitable for industrial uses in strong threads and heavy canvases and tarpaulins.
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.1.
BUYING POINTS OF COTTON FABRICS
1. Cotton conducts moisture away from the body and allows the cooler temperatures outside to reach the body, so it is a cool material for summer or tropical wear. But, since short cotton fibres nap easily, cotton fabrics can also be made warm when necessary. Knitted cotton underwear absorbs perspiration and keeps the wearer comfortable.
2. Durability refers to the length of time that a fabric will wear. Workmanship indicates the skill and care that is given to a fabric when it is manufactured. Cotton fibres are comparatively short; therefore, they can produce a yarn that is fairly weak in tensile strength. However, a cotton fibre, because of its natural twist, spins so well that it can be twisted very tightly; hence, since tightly twisted yarns are more durable than those that are slackly twisted, cotton yarns are strong and fabrics made from them are durable. Cotton yarns can be given considerable tensile strength, and the cloth made from these yarns can be durable. It is the quality of the yarn, of course, to weave and finish that primarily determines the durability of the cloth.
3. Cotton can be pressed with a hot iron; its scorching point is high. Since cotton fibre is fairly inelastic, most cotton fabrics wrinkle easily and, hence, unless they are finished for crease resistance, need frequent pressing.
4. An innovation in fabric finishing provided durable-press cotton clothing. The resin finish, called Koratron, imparts permanent crease and shape to a garment. Fabrics so finished are wrinkle- and crease- resistant and should not require ironing. The shape of the garment is retained permanently.
5. One of the chief objections to cotton was its shrinkage. A generation ago, consumers allowed a whole size for shrinkage of a shirt after laundering. Shrinkage-control treatments can now be applied to cottons so that not more than 1 percent residual shrinkage remains to be taken into account.
6. This characteristic is related to how the cotton fabric feels next to the skin. Cotton fibres feel cool, smooth, and soft. When cotton is processed into fabric, it depends from the type of yarns, construction, and finish applied.
7. Cotton can serve for food (cottonseed products), for clothing, and for shelter. Cotton clothing can be worn around the clock. A single cotton fabric, pique, can be used for a house dress, a sports dress, a summer business dress, a bathing suit, or a beach bag. It is particularly adapted to children's dresses. Cotton is appropriate for wearing apparel, home furnishings, industrial uses, and military supplies.
8. The improvements in finishes have given newer and better uses to cotton. Other than the basic finishes, there are treatments for resistance to stains, water, flame, rot; also functional finishes for permanent stiffness, create resistance, crease retention, wash-and-wear, durable press.
BUYING POINTS OF LINEN FABRICS
In aiding the customer to buy linen, the salesperson should stress the following features, in addition to its coolness for summer wear.
Durability and workmanship. The durability of the cloth depends on the fibres and yarns of which it is made. Care in growth, harvesting, and dressing of flax affects the quality of the fibre. If flax is allowed to overripen, the fibre becomes too brittle to make good cloth. If fibres are overretted, they become too tender. If care is not taken in scutching and combing good-quality fibres may be broken or wasted. Consequently, the durability of linen cloth depends upon the degree of skilled workmanship. Since the linen fibre is longer and stronger than cotton of the same diameter, linen should be more durable than cotton, considering fibres alone. Linens and cottons are stronger when wet than when dry, so that washing does not weaken them. Weaving them together creates a durable fabric.
Absorbency. Linen is absorbent because the flax fibre is hollow through the centre, like bamboo. Since linen dish towels will dry more dishes than cotton before feeling damp, fewer dish towels are required. Also, the absorptive nature of linen yarns contributes to sound deadening. This feature partially explains the increased use of linen for wall coverings.
Ease in care. Because flax fibre is inelastic, linen fabric require frequent pressing to remove wrinkles, unless the fabric has been treated for crease resistance. It is best to sprinkle the fabric and to iron it while damp. Linen does not get soiled as quickly as cotton because the fibres are longer, harder, and smoother. Hot water and soap will not injure the fibre, but care should be taken not to starch linens heavily (especially damasks), for there is danger of breaking the fibres under a heavy iron.
Washability of linen is a strong buying motive for any consumer. Household linen, handkerchiefs, and linen apparel (but be sure to check the label, since many articles require dry cleaning) all wash easily week after week, year after year, and get softer with use.
Generally speaking, dry cleaning is the recommended method for drapery and upholstery linens. Decorative linens should not be washed, unless labeled washable and preshrunk.
.1.
1. 1. In what countries is cotton grown?
2. Define mercerization, combing, spinning.
3. Describe the process of making cotton yarn.
4. What is meant by versatility? Illustrate the versatility of cotton.
5. What qualities in the cotton fibres and yarns make cotton fabrics durable?
6. Forecast and defend the use of cotton in consumer goods.
7. What are the main physical and chemical characteristics of flax fibres?
8. Compare each of the characteristics just listed with the corresponding characteristics of cotton.
9. How are linen yarns made?
10.Why do consumers buy linen fabrics?
11.Why is linen suitable for dish towels?
12. Do you wear linen dresses in summer?
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bedlinen n ;
brocade ;
corduroy n ,
curtain n
detachable collar
flat a 1. , , ; 2. , ( );
floral ();
interfacing n , ;
infant wear ( );
lingerie n ( );
napkin , , ;
.1. ,
COTTON AND LINEN
Batiste. A soft, sheer, lightweight fabric named after the French weaver, Jean Batiste. Cotton, linen, or a mix of the two, batiste may be used for summer dresses and shirts, infant wear and lingerie.
Brocade. A fabric with areas of different weaves which create a raised pattern. Brocade can be cotton, synthetic, silk, or a blend.
Canvas. This term applies to several different fabrics, including cotton, linen and synthetics. Canvas with a heavy, close weave is used for upholstery, making sails, awnings (, ), tents and for industrial purposes. This term includes a linen fabric used as an interfacing in hand tailoring.
Chintz. A glazed, medium-weight cotton fabric used for home furnishings. Chintz is traditionally printed with a pattern of flowers and birds.
Corduroy. A corded fabric in which the rib has been sheared after it is woven to produce a smooth, velvet-like nap. Traditionally made of cotton, orduroy can also be made from a cotton and synthetic blend which is crease resistant.
Damask. Similar to brocade, damask has a flatter finish with a pattern produced by the contrast of areas of satin weave against a plain background. It is a popular fabric for tablecloths and napkins and can be made from cotton or linen.
Muslin. A plain-weave fabric usually woven from cotton or cotton blends. Muslin is made in a variety of weights, ranging form a sheer quality for light garments to a heavier fabric suitable for bed-linen.
Pique. A fabric woven with small, raised ribs or geometric patterns which is usually made from cotton or a blend of cotton and polyester. It is a crisp fabric that can be printed with colourful designs. White pique is the classic fabric for tennis clothes and detachable collars and cuffs.
Plisse. A puckered effect produced on cotton fabrics by shrinking some areas of the fabric with a chemical, caustic soda. The finish is reasonably permanent, but plisse fabrics should not be ironed as the puckers will become flattened.
Poplin. A light to medium-weight cotton with fine cross ribs formed by using a weft yarn which is thicker than the warp.
Sateen. A strong, satin-weave fabric made of cotton, can be plain or printed.
Voile. A light, delicate cotton or silk fabric used for summer garments and lightweight curtains.
5
5
5.2
5.2.3.
1. to be
2.
3. (.1. .3.)
4. .1.
5. (.1.)
5:
ability n , ;
bind v (bound) , (); binding n; to bind an edge (of a garment); to bind an inside corner; to bind a curve; the bias binding;
blanket n ();
broadcloth n 1. ; 2. ; 3.
check n ; checked ; stripe n ; striped ; black with a red stripe; a table-cloth with a wide green stripe; Do you want a stripe or a check?
crimp n ; , ; to possess crimp; crimp hair
embroidery n 1. , ; 2.
handle n 1. , ; 2. ; the handle of a knife; soft in handle; good handling and appearance properties; to have a "wool-like" handle; handle v-1. ( -. -.), ; 2. , ; 3. ; 4. ; to learn how to handle; this wool handles soft; to handle a fabric; to handle an edge; to handle the seam properly; to handle the seam on curves and corners
layout n , , , ( )
loosen v 1. ; 2. ; . ; loosening n 1. ; 2. ; loosely woven fabrics; to remove all loose dirt
luxurious
measure n , , ; v , , ; measurement n 1. ; 2. pl ; to have a suit made to measure ; to take measurements; to measure a piece of cloth
obtain v ; to obtain information; to obtain experience
prevent v , ; to prevent war; to prevent eating by moth
process v ,
responsible a 1. ,; 2.,
ribbon n , ; to be trimmed with ribbon
sensitive a 1. , ; 2. , ; sensitive skin; sensitive to heat (to cold)
slacks n pl ;
skilful , , ; skill n 1. , , ; 2. ; skilful mechanic; skilful handling
sponge v , ; spongy , , ;
woolen , ; worsted , ( ); woolen dresses; woolen cloth; worsted yarn
.1. , body
a. ;
b. / ; ()
c. , ;
d. to give body - (, )
1. We wear clothes to keep our bodies warm.
2. Garments that are held closely to the body will need lighter weight and more flexible linings than those garments that stand away from the body.
3. If a warm fabric is used to line the body of the coat, a slippery lining such as napped-back satin should be used in the sleeves.
4. Underlining is a layer of fabric that is sewed as one with the fashion fabric to prevent the fashion fabric from stretching and to give additional body.
5. If more body is desired in the lapel,...
6. If extra body is needed only in the point of a lapel,...
7. A method of giving body to the lapel is to fuse a lightweight interfacing to the lapel facing.
8. The curve of the sleeve is much greater than the curve of the body of the garment.
.2.
WOOL
1. Wool is widely available but the quantity produced is much smaller and more expensive than cotton. Wool grows on the body of the sheep forming a protective covering known as a fleece. Wool is obtained either by shearing the fleece from the live animal, usually once a year, or by pulling the wool, after chemical loosening, from the skin of the dead animal.
2. Versatility. Wool is a fibre with outstanding clothing properties of softness, warmth, resilience and drape.
3. A wool fabric acts as an insulating medium preventing a quick escape () of body heat so that a feeling of warmth is engendered (). A further aid to comfort is that wool can absorb excess moisture without feeling cold. Fine wool is usually soft enough not to irritate the skin.
4. Wool fabrics are not highly inflammable, they do not ignite () easily, nor do they carry flame readily, so that wool garments do not need chemical assistance in this respect. In addition the insulating properties of wool give some measure of heat protection and heavy wool fabrics are commonly used for fire-fighting uniforms.
5. Wool fibres are soft and very elastic. Being resilient they return to their original shape after stretching. Because of the high elasticity and resiliency of the fibres woolen textiles are crease-resistant and retain shape. Wool fibres are poor conductors of heat, that is, they retain heat. Woolen fabrics wear well though the strength of wool fibres is not so great as that of flax and cotton.
6. Wool fabrics are classified as worsteds or woolens, depending on the quality of the fibres and the processes used in making them into yarns.
7. Worsteds. Long fibres are used in making worsted yarns. The fibres are put through a combing process which removes the short ones and lay the remaining long fibres parallel. Worsted yarns are smooth, hard, even, and compact. Good-quality worsted fabrics are usually light-weight. They have a distinct weave. Worsted fabrics tailor well and have good draping qualities. They resist wrinkling, retain creases well. Worsteds usually wear well, though such fabrics as serges, and gabardines tend to become shiny.
8. Woolens. In making woolens, shorter fibres than those in worsteds are used. The fibres are not combed to lie parallel and so go in all directions in the yarn. The yarns are loosely twisted, soft and not so even as worsted yarns. The weave of woolen fabrics is not so distinct as that of most worsteds. Some woolen fabrics are napped; others have a soft slightly matted appearance.
9. Good-quality woolens are generally soft. Woolen fabrics do not hold creases so well as worsteds but since they are softer, they do not hold wrinkles and do not get shiny.
BUYING POINTS OF WOOL FABRICS
1. Most of wool fabrics have the attractive appearance. Colors can be soft and muted or high in intensity, with depth and permanence. The depth and softness of a woolen pile, the nap of a woolen, and the intricacies of weave in a worsted have an eye appeal. A fabric that drapes and fits well helps to present a good appearance.
2. Wool's elasticity is responsible for its wrinkle-resistant quality, a partic
