| Soil Details (1). Making a Seed Bed Cabbages do best in a reasonably firm soil (2), so leave it for several months between digging and planting. Like all brassica varieties (3) dig in plenty of well rotted manure (4) or compost in the autumn - don't dig in the manure close to planting time. If the soil is acid then apply lime (5) during the preparation, acid soil discourages growth (6) and encourages that dreaded affliction (7) of brassicas, club root (8)... aim at pH 6.5 - 7.0. Pick a reasonably sunny spot for the site where you are growing cabbages. If you can, use a site where peas and beans (Legumes) where grown the previous year, if you dug in manure or compost for them then no more is required (9). If you didn't, then feed the soil as described above. Don't dig up those pea and bean roots as they contain lots of usefull nitrogen that plants require. About a week before planting apply a general fertiliser like Growmore (10). Don't apply it when growing cabbage like spring cabbages though, as this variety needs to be grown slowly in a sheltered spot (11)... remember these cabbages are growing through the winter. If cabbage root fly (12) is a problem (see photo left) use protective discs (13) around the base of the plants so the flies can't lay their eggs - purchase them from garden centers or make your own from roofing felt (14), old carpet or underlay (15)... use your imagination. Don't fork over the surface (16) before planting. Tread the soil down gently (17)then rake over (18) and remove any surface rubbish (19). In early spring rake over and level the area (20) you have chosen as a seed bed - frosts will have done a lot of the work for you by then. If you only require a few plants then this need not be too big an area. Cover the bed with sifted mature compost (21) if you have some - the bed may be small enough to purchase a bag or two from your garden centre, especially if you're just beginning your adventure in growing cabbage, you might not have the organic matter to compost. Firm the bed by tamping the surface with the back of your rake (22)... but only when the soil is dry enough i.e. not sticking to your boots (23). Then give it a light raking over. | 1. 2. 3. 4. - 5. 6. 7. 8. ( ) 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. / 14. / 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. |
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Exercise 2 b. Mach the phrases in column A with their equivalents in column B:
| A. Pick a reasonably sunny spot for the site where you are growing cabbages. | 1. , , . |
| B. Cabbages do best in a reasonably firm soil, so leave it for several months between digging and planting. | 2. , , (), , . |
| C. Don't dig up those pea and bean roots as they contain lots of useful nitrogen that plants require. | 3. . |
| D. If cabbage root fly is a problem (see photo left) use protective discs around the base of the plants so the flies can't lay their eggs - purchase them from garden centers or make your own from roofing felt, old carpet or underlay... use your imagination. | 4. , .. |
| E. Like all brassica varieties dig in plenty of well rotted manure or compost in the autumn - don't dig in the manure close to planting time. | 5. , , , . |
| F. If you can, use a site where peas and beans (Legumes) where grown the previous year, if you dug in manure or compost for them then no more is required. | 6. , , . |
| G. Don't fork over the surface before planting. | 7. . |
| H. If you only require a few plants then this need not be too big an area. | 8. , . |
