The next part of the product managers job is to select the fabric that will be used in making a garment. Choosing a supplier is always a tricky business. Some other factors have to be considered. Is the fabric of acceptable quality? Is the price acceptable? Will the fabric be delivered by the supplier on time? Then it is necessary to choose the final samples that will be used as models in making the garment. Samples are often changed over again until they are perfect. When the final samples are ready, mass production can begin. Preparing the patterns once the original design has been approved, pattern makers set to work making the patterns. The patterns are first drawn on heavy pieces of cardboard, called markers. Markers are used to trace many paper patterns. Before the markers are used to make paper patterns, the layout of the pattern has to be worked out. The pattern layout determines how much fabric is wasted. The most efficient layout must be found. Clothes manufacturers now use computers to select the best pattern layout. The pattern maker uses miniature pattern pieces, displayed on a video screen. The video screen can display any of the pattern pieces stored in the computer. This process is called computer assisted drafting.
When the pattern maker is satisfied, the markers are traced in ink. The garment pattern is then machined copied many times on a long roll of pattern paper.
If all goes on schedule, the fabric begins to arrive about the time the pattern makers have settled on their final layouts.
Spreaders or large fabric layering machines unroll the bolts back and forth on tables over 100 feet long. The table is marked so the cutting machine operator knows where to lay the fabric. The fabric is staked into 30 to 50 layers for cutting. The fabric pile is often 8 inches deep. At the same time, the continuous paper pattern is laid out top of the staked fabric and stapled in place. Then, automatic cutting machine cut through the 8 inches of fabric. The machines have been preset to follow the outline of the pattern.
Engineers have carefully platted exactly how to move the pattern pieces from sewing machine to sewing machine to make the most efficient use of time and people. In an assembly line, each operator usually does only one specific task. For example, one person sews together all the underarm seams. Another might work on constructing the collars. Still another might sew on the front pockets. By using this method, sewing time can be really shortened. A shirt may take only 12 or 13 minutes to sew. Think for a minute how much time you would require to make an entire shirt by yourself.
Every finished garment is inspected thoroughly by people hired to do this work. The person inspecting the garment decides whether it can be fixed or not. Once the garment have been sewn and inspected, the next step is managing their sales. Sample garments are being made and then distributed to sales representatives at sales meetings. The sales departments bring in all the sales representatives just before a new line is ready to be launched. Product managers are expected to introduce the line. Sales representatives are provided with order numbers, samples in many colours or colour swatches, and ideas to help them sell the products. Any questions asked by the sales representatives about the line have to be answered.
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III Answer the questions:
1. Who chooses a fabric used in making a garment?
2. What factors should be considered in fabric selection?
3. What are markers?
4. What are they used for?
5. What do clothes manufacturers use now?
6. When are markers traced in ink?
7. What is used to move the pattern pieces?
8. How can sewing time be saved?
9. What step goes next after inspecting the garment?
10. What do sales representatives perform?
IV Complete the sentences with the words from the text:
1. The product manager..that will be used for a garment.
2. The mass production can begin when..
3. Pattern makers set to work after
4.are now used by clothes manufacturers.
5. The garment is copied many times on..
6. machine out through the fabric.
V Find the English equivalents to the words:
, , , , , , , , ,
VI Make up sentences with the terms:
A tricky business, quality, to set to work, efficient layout, to miniature, a roll of pattern paper, to introduce
VII Give definitions to the words:
A sample, efficient, schedule, an assembly line, a sales representative
VIII Translate the sentences into English:
1.
.
2. .
3. .
4.
.
5.
.
6. .
7. .
8. .
9. .
IX Speak on the topic using the following words and word-combinations:
To select a fabric, to choose a supplier, to begin mass production, to approve a design, to draw patterns on cardboard, computer assisted drafting, to be platted by engineers, to be inspected, to distribute, sales representatives, product managers, the line of products
TEXT B
I Read and remember:
1. fad ,
2. terrific
3. challis , ,
4. to wrinkle
5. a shawl
6. to be fringe
7. a token
8. female attire
9. a pouch
10. doe (, , )
11. sealskin
II Read the text and define the main idea of it:
Garment Accessories
Accessories are items of apparel worn with a garment to complete the outfit. Hats scarves, ties, shawls, jewelry, belts, gloves, bags, socks, stockings, sunglasses and watches are all accessories.
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Accessories add interest and individuality to your clothes.
Popular tastes in accessories fashion change quickly. When buying or making accessories ask yourself if it is a "fad" or a "classic" design. Then decide how much you are willing to pay for the accessory. Accessories come in all price ranges. One special accessory can sometimes make a basic outfit look terrific.
Lightweight fashion scarves are made in several standard sizes. Heavier - weight scarves for warmth vary in size. The standard heavy scarf for women is about 4 feet long; men's heavy scarves are usually about 5 feet long. Scarves can be made in almost any fabric that drapes and will knot. Cottons, silk, and challis are particularly good. It is advisable to select a fabric that does not wrinkle easily. A scarf can match or contrast with your outfit in colour and pattern.
Shawls came and go in popularity, but they always add a touch of drama. They keep you warm. It can be fringed or unfringed. Fringe usually varies in length up to 9 inches (23 cm).
Gloves The glove has, perhaps, more than any other component of woman dress, acquired a romantic character. It has long been a token of the extremes of love and hate. The glove was one of the few articles of female attire which a man could offer as a gift to his lady-love. Gloves are by no means minor accessories of dress.
Whether worn or carried, they form one of the finishing touches of the elegantly attired man and woman. As protective coverings for all kinds of purposes gardening, sport and industrial processes - their importance is very great and probably growing.
In England common use of gloves was a comparatively late development in clothing, it is thought that the extended sleeves of early Norman times were designed, in part at least, as protection for the hands. It was, however, not till the 16th century that Queen Elizabeth set the fashion for wearing gloves richly embroidered and jeweled. France was known to be the largest world maker of leather gloves.
Women's handbags The manufacture of ladies' handbags as now known is a modern specialized trade. Pouches (or game bag) introduced during the fourteenth century were towards the end of the fifteenth replaced for a time by pouches, often of great size and which closed with a nap. In all these types leather was used extensively although not exclusively.
There has been little change in style until we reach the period of the "reticule", which became necessary with the introduction of slim, high waist dresses round about 1800. During the period crinoline purses of many types achieved great importance, being often made of fine leather such as doe or sealskin.
The purse with many compartments was a feature of the nineteenth century but has now practically disappeared.
The manufacture of handbags is now a separate craft requiring high specialization, its own distinct methods of manufacture and an intensified study of fashion trends. It demands a wide knowledge of materials - leather, textiles, plastics, artificial leathers and metals - and outstanding ability in design based on comprehensive technical knowledge.
