, . , , , , . , , , . , . , , . , . , . , . , , , . , , , . (, ), , , (. 2).
, , , , ?
, , / , , , , . (), , . , .
, , , , . , , , , . , . , , - (. 3).
. , - , - .
|
|
, , , . , ( ) () , . , , , . , , , :
1) , ;
2) ;
3) ( , );
4) * ( , );
5) ( , , , , . .);
6) ( , , ) , , ;
7) ( ):
8) *;
9) .
. , , .
* , , , , . , , , . , . - . .
* , . (, , ) , , . , , - . ? , . - . .
, , , .
, , , , . , : , . , . , , . , , . , , . , , , - , . , , . , , , . .
|
|
, . . , , , ( , ). , , -, , -, . , . , 1 , , , - , (, , ) , .
, , . , , , , .
, , , (. 4). -, --"- ( hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis, HPA axis) [5]. .
( - (corticotropin-releasing hormone), --- (), ), (- , , ) (). [6]. , .
, , , , , . , , [7]. , , , ( ). , . , , ( ), -, . , , , , [8].
|
|
, , . , .
() , . , , , (. 4). , , , . . . , ? , , . , , , , [9].
- , , , , , , , . , , , . , . , , , , . , [10]. , , , .
, . , , . , , (), , , , [11]. , , , ( ), [12]. , [13]. , , . - * -, (-1, -6, - .), , , ( ) . , [9].
|
|
, (, , ), , - . , , , , [14, 15, 16].
, , ( ), , , . , , , -, , , , . , , . , - , , (. 5).
, , , .
, , , , . , . , , , , , -, , , . . ( , ), , , , , ( ).
, . , , , , , (wear & tear) , . , , , . , , , .
|
|
, , , , , , . , , , ( ), . , ( ) , . , , , - , , . , , , . , .
, , . , , , , . . , , . , , (, -) [1].
, . , , , . , , . , ( * ).
. , . , , , , , , , ., - [2]. , . , , - (3- (alpha hydroxy acids beta hydroxy acids, AHA BHA), , (trichloroacetic acid, TCA). He , , , , . , .
(), - ( ), ( ) (. 1).
, . , , . . , , , , [3]. , -
, , .
, , , , , , . , . , , , .
.
1. Campisi J. The role of cellular senescence in skin aging. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 1998; 3(1): 1-5.
2. Gilchrest B.A. A review of skin aging and its medical therapy. Br J Dermatol 1996:135(6): 867-875.
3. Peters W. The chemical peel. Ann Plast Surg 1991; 26(6): 564-571.
4. Imokawa G. Biological mechanism of epidermal pigmentation, wrinkle formation and barrier disruption in atopic dermatitis. XXI IFSCC International Congress: Proceedings; 2000, p. 7-15.
5. Adzick N.S. Lorenz HP. Cell matrix, growth factors and the surgeon. The biology of scarless fetal wound repair. Ann Surg 1994; 220(1): 10-18.
6. Kahari V.M. Saarialho U. Matrix metalloproteinases in skin. Exp Dermatol 1997; 6(5): 199-213.
7. Gillitzer R., Goebeler M. Chemokines in cutaneous wound healing. J Leukoc Biol 2001; 69(4): 513-521.
8. (, )/ . A.M. , .. . . 1982, . 192-200.
9. Matarasso S.L.. Glogau R.G. Chemical face peels. Dermatol Clin 1991; 9(1): 131-150.
10.Collins PS. The chemical peel. Clin Dermatol 1987; 5(4): 57-74.
//. Perricone N. V. DiNardo J. . Photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg 1996; 22(5): 435-437.
12.Scott E.J.. Yu R.J. Hyperkeratinization. corneocyte cohesion, and alpha hydroxy acids. J Am Acad Dermatol 1984; 11(5 Pt 1): 867-879.
13.Thibault P.K.. Wlodarczyk J., Wenck A. A double-blind randomized clinical trial on the effectiveness of a daily glycolic acid 5% formulation in the treatment ofphotoaging. Dermatol Surg 1998; 24(5): 573-577.
14.Bernstein E.F.. Lee J., Brown D.B.. Yu R.. Van Scottt E. Glycolic acid treatment increase type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Dermatol Surg 2001; 27(5): 429-433.
15.Ditre .. Grijfm T.D.. Murphy G.F.. Sueki H. Telegan .. Johnson W.C.. Yu R.J.. Van Scott E.J. Effect of alpha hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, hystologic and ultrastructurul study. J Am Dermatol 1996; 34(2Pt 1): 187-195.
16.Newman N.. Newman A., Moy L.S., Badapour R., Harris A.G., Moy R.L. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Dermatol Swg 1996; 22(5): 455-460.
17.Moy L.S.. Howe K.Moy R.L. Glycolic acid modulation of collagen production in human skin fibroblast cultures in vitro. Dermatol Surg 1996; 22(5): 439-441.
18.Zhai 11.. Hannon W.. Hahn G.S.. Pelosi A.. Harper R.A.. Maibach H.l. Strontium nitrate supreses chemically-induced sensoiy irritation in humans. Contact Dermatitis 2000; 42(2): 98-100.
19.Edison R.B. Phenol peeling: new standards of excellence. Aesthetic Plast Surg 1996; 20(1): 81-82.
20.Johnson J... Ichinose H.. Obagi Z.E., Laub DR. Obagi's modified trichloroacetic acid (TCA)-contr oiled variable depth peel: a study of clinical signs correlating with histological findings. Ann Plast Surg 1997; 38(3): 298-302.
21.Obagi Z.E.. Obagi S.. Alaiti S.. Stevens MB. TCA-based blue peel: a standardized procedure with depth control. Dermatol Surg 1999; 25(10): 773-780.
22.Collins PS. Trichloroacetic acid peels revisited. J Dermatol Surg Oncol 1989; 15(9): 933-940.
23.Monheit G.D. The Jessner's-trichloroacetic acid peel. An enhanced medium depth chemical peel. Dermatol Clin 1995; 13(2): 277-283.
24.Tse Y. OstadA.. Lee H.S.. Levine V.J., KoenigK.. Kamino H., Ashinoff R. A clinical and histologic evaluation of two medium-depth peels. Glycolic acid versus Jessner s trichloroacetic acid. Dermatol Surg 1996: 22(9): 781-786.
25.Cook K.K.. Cook H'.R.Jr. Chemical peel of nonfacial skin using glycolic acid gel augmented with TCA and neutralized based on visual staging. Dermatol Surg 2000; 26(11): 994-999.
26.
:
26. Coleman W.P. 3rd. FutrellJ.M. The glycolic acid trichloroacetic acid peel. J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1994; 20(1): 12.
27. 27 Kang S., Voorhees J.J. Photoaging therapy with topical tretinoin: an evidence- based analisis. J Am Acad Dermatol 1998; 39(2Pt3): S55-61.
28. Hevia O., Nemelh A.J., Taylor J. R. Tretinoin accelerates healing after trichloroacetic acid chemical peel. Arch Dermatol 1991; 127(5): 678-682.
29.Tonnesen M.G.. Feng X.. Clark R.A. Angiogenesis in wound healing. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 2000; 5(1): 40-46.
30.Mendez-Eastman S. Negative pressure wound therapy. Plast Surg Nurs 1998; 18(1): 27-99. 33-37.
31.Nose K. Role of reactive oxygen species in the regulation ofphysiological functions. Biol Pharm Bull 2000; 23(8): 897-903.
32.Hensley K.. Robinson K.A., Gabbita S.P, Salsman S.. Floyd R.A. Reactive oxygen species, cell signaling, and cell injury. Free Radic Biol Med 2000; 15; 28(10): 1456-1462.
33.Gamaley I.A.. Klyubin I. V. Roles of reactive oxygen species: signaling and regulation of cellular functions. Int Rev Cytol 1999; 188: 203-255.
34.Shukla A.. Rasik A.M.. Patnaik G.K. Depletion of reduced glutathione, ascorbic acid, vitamin E and antioxidant defence enzymes in a healing cutaneous wound. Free Radic Res 1997; 26(2): 93-101.
35.Pribitkin Ed.. Boger G. Herbal therapy: what every facial plastic suigeon must know. Arch Facial Plast Surg 2001; 3(2): 127-132.
36.Chen E.A.. Zhao L.. Bamat M.. von Borstel R.. Mustoe T. Acceleration of wound healing > with topically applied deoxyribonucleosides. Arch Surg 1999; 134(5): 520-525.
37.WolfR. Early repeeling a matter of time. Int J Dermatol 1998; 37(9): 709-712.
- (AHA)
I. AHA. -
90- ., - (alpha hydroxy acids, AHA) . .
, , , AHA , - - .
AHA
, , . , () - - () -. , -, -, , . , --, , . , [3,4].
1. (8% , 24 ) %
, 3,8 , 3,7
3,9 2,7
12,6 11,0
6,9 4,9
19,5 15,9
12,1 10,3
35,5 28,9
2. 3% ( --. 8% , 24 ) %
. 1,7 3,0
14,2 20,5
4,3 5,8
18,5 26,3
2,2 8,6
22,4 37,9
3. ( --, 8% , 6 ) %
,7 4,2 5,6
2,8 1,8 1,2
5,1 3,1 2,1
2,4 2,9 2,0
7,5 6,0 4,1
4,7 4,9 0,9
15,0 12,7 6,2
14- 23 . 0,2 2x2 , 24 2 . ( ). , 2 . , . .
,
. , , 12% AHA. - , [5].
[6]. , . .
. , .
/. Eller J.J.. WolffS. Skin peeling and scarification. JAMA, 1941; 116: 934-938.
2. Kligman A.M.. Balin A.K. Aging of human skin. N.Y.: Raven.Press.; 1993; 1-42.
3. Whitton J.., Ever all J.D. The thickness of the epidermis. Br. J. Dermatol. 1973; 89(5): 467-476.
4. Obagi Z.E. Obagi Skin Health. Restoration and Rejuvenation. 1999; 11-13.
5. Smith W.P. Hydroxy acids and Skin aging. Cosmet. Toilet. 1994; 109: 41-48.
6. Miller E.J.. Gay S. Collagen structure and function. In: Wound Healing: biochemical and physical aspects. Philadelphia, Pa: W.B.Sannders,1992: 130-151.
7. Fleischmajer R., Perlish J.S., Bashey R.l. Human dermal glycosaminoglycans and aging. Biochim. Biophys. Acta. 1972; 279(2): 265-275.
8. Edvard M. Proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans. Chichester, England: John Wiley c5 Sons, 1993; 89-110.
9. Urbach F. Geographic pathology of skin cancers. Oxford, England: Pergamon Press: 1969; 635-650.
10.Ditre ., Griffin T.D., Murphy G.F. Sueki H., Telegan ., Johnson W.C., Yu R.J., Van Scott E.J. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1996; 34(2 Pt 1): 187-195.
11.Bernstein E.F., Underhill C.B., Lakkakorpi J., Ditre ., UittoJ.. Yu R.J., Scott E. V. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness and glycosaminoglycan content of sun-damaged skin. Dermatol. Surg. 1997; 23(8): 689-694.
12.Fartasch M., Teal J.. Menon G.K. Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 1997; 289(7)-.404-409.
, , , , -, . , , . , , , , - . , . , .
, , , , , , , . , , , - [1]. , , . . , , , .
, , , . , , , , , . , , . , , , [3]. , . , , .
, , , , , . , , , -, , . (, - , , , ). , , --- , , - . , . [4].
(-- [], . I.)
, [5]. , . , . , , - ( , , , , ). , , .
( )
( ) , , , ( , ).
( )
( , , , ). , , , . , , , ( ), .
(, , -, , . .). , , , , . , .
. . , - , , . , , . , [6]. , , .
, . , , -- .
, , , , , (3- (, ). , ( , ) . , (-, , ), , -. , , , . , , , (. 1).
, , , , , , , , . . , [7].
, .
. , , , , , , , . , - , , . , - , , . , , , . ! , , . , , F. S. Dhabhar [8].
:
, Dhabhar , , . , ? , ? Dhabhar , * , , . , , (, , ). , (, ). . ? , . Dhabhar , , , . ( , ), ( ) . , . , , , -- [9]. ( , ), .
* , , . , , . . .
, , . . , , (. 2).
:
P.M. Elias K.R. Feingolci' [10]. Shiseido, . , , , , , , . . , * . , . .
, . , . . , , , . [11].
, . , , , . , , , , . , {heat shock proteins, hsp), . , . , [12, 13]. , ( , , ), . , , [14].
* , - .
, . :
1) ;
2) ;
3) ;
4) , ;
5) ;
6) ;
7) , , -.
( , , . .), --, , . - , , (. 3).
, , , , - . . , , . -, . . , , , [15]. , , , , -, .
, , , , , . , . , , , , , , wear & tear.
, , , , , ( ), ( , ) ( ). , , ; -, (, ), , . , , , , (. 4).
( ), , ( ). ? , , , . , , --, , , . . ( ). , . , [ 16]. , , , , , . , [17]. , , , , [ 18, 19]. , .
, , , , , . , , , , , [20]. , . , , (-, . .). , (, ). , , . , , , , , [21]. , , , [22].
:
, , ( , , . .), , . , ( ), ( ), (, , ), (, , ). , ( , . . ) (, ). , , (. 4). . , , , wear & tear} ?,
, , , , . , , , , . :
1) 40 ( );
2) (, . .);
3) ;
4) , , .
40 , , , , , .
, , . , , . , , , .
, : , ( , ), ( ) ( ). , ( ). , , (, . .). , , , . , wear & tear, . , , , .
, , , ( ), .
, . , , , .