Agents are used according to
manufacturer’s instructions
Before using any solvent, detergent or sanitizing
agent such as bleach you must read both the label
on the container and the COSHH sheet which the
manufacturer or your company has prepared.
Solvent should only be used in the cleaning bath
for which it is designed.
The pressure washer or steam jenny should only
be used with the recommended detergent.
Electrical items can be cleaned with one of the
many aerosol sprays which are available for this
purpose, but the volatile fumes which are given off
must not be breathed in.
You should remember that all cleaning agents
should be kept away from your mouth and eyes,
and contact with your skin may cause irritation or
a more serious skin disease. Always wash your
hands and any other exposed areas of skin with toilet
soap after carrying out a cleaning task.
Used agents are safely disposed
Of according to local and statutory
Regulations
The Environmental Protection Act (EPA) and local
by-laws in most areas require that used cleaning
solvents must be disposed of safely. This means
that they must be put into drums and either collected
by a refuse disposal firm or taken to a local
authority amenity site where they are put into a
large tank for bulk incineration. Several local
authorities, for instance Surrey and Hampshire, are
now looking at ways of using the energy produced
by burning waste material to produce electricity.
Emptying used solvents into the drain can lead to a
heavy fine or even imprisonment.
Detergents are by their nature biodegradable,
that is, they break down, do not build up sludge
and will not explode, unlike solvents. However, if
you use large quantities of detergents, wash bays
which are fitted with the correct type of drainage
system should be used.
Machinery, equipment and work
Areas are cleaned according to
Locally agreed schedules
In your company’s Health and Safety Policy document
there will be reference to the cleaning of the
floors and equipment in the garage and general
amenities such as toilets and rest areas. Also there
will be maintenance and repair records for the
workshop equipment which will include a regular
schedule of cleaning and inspection.
Most companies work on the basis of sweeping
down fixed machinery and floors at the end of each
day, unless the generation of dirt requires more frequent
attention.
On a weekly basis there will be a more thorough
cleaning programme which may include window
cleaning and wet cleaning certain areas.
Workshop equipment is usually cleaned and
inspected on a monthly basis unless there is reason,
such as a fault, for a more regular treatment.
Appropriate safety clothing and
Equipment is used when working
With hazardous cleansing agents
And equipment
To protect yourself from the cleaning agents which
you are using you must, where appropriate, wear
personal protective equipment (PPE). Most cleaning
agents are poisonous and cause irritation or
more serious complaints if allowed to come into
contact with your eyes or skin.
Whenever you are working on a motor vehicle it
is expected that you wear cotton overalls and
safety footwear. In addition the HSWA requires
that employers provide and employees wear the
appropriate PPE for hazardous jobs such as using
cleaning equipment. The general requirements are
as follows:
1 Cleaning bath – rubber protective gloves
which extend over the user’s wrists,
goggles and plastic apron. Avoid getting
solvent on your overalls as this can lead to
skin irritation, be especially careful not to put
solvent soaked or oily rags in your overall
pockets.
2 Pressure washer – rubber protective gloves and
goggles, waterproof (plastic) over-trousers and
jacket, and finally rubber boots (wellingtons).
The idea is to be able to take the waterproof
gear off and be dry underneath.
3 Steam cleaning plant – the hazard here is that as
well as being wet the water is scolding hot. So
the waterproof clothes must be of such a manufacture
that they will protect the wearer from
84 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
the high temperature, high pressure steam. This
means thick and strong over-trousers, coat,
boots, gloves and a hat. A full-face mask is used
to give complete protection.
Health and Safety issues are further discussed in
chapter 15.
Questions
1 State five basic rules concerning dress and
behaviour which demonstrate personal safety in
the workshop environment.
2 List five necessary precautions for safety in the
workshop and describe each one briefly.
3 What is meant by a skin care system as used in
the workshop?
4 Explain the importance of eye and face protection
in the workshop environment.
5 Explain the importance of protective clothing for
a body repairer and a paint sprayer.
6 Explain the significance of headwear and
footwear while working in the workshop.
7 Name the four types of respirator used in a
bodyshop.
8 Why have the COSHH Regulations made the use
of respiratory equipment mandatory?
9 State the minimum noise level at which ear
protection must be used.
10 With the aid of a diagram, explain the fire
triangle.
11 Name the three methods of fire extinction.
12 Explain the three classifications of fire.
13 Identify the correct colour code for the following
fire extinguishers: water, foam, CO2, powder,
halon.
14 Name the four categories of safety signs used in
the workshop.
15 Sketch and identify a safety sign used in a
bodyshop.
16 Name the items of personal safety equipment that
should be used when operating the following
power tools: power saw, power chisel, disc sander.
17 State the essential personal safety precautions to
be taken before working under a vehicle which is
on a hoist.
18 Give practical reasons for wearing safety gloves
in the workshop.
19 Identify the type of fire extinguisher that must be
used when dealing with a solvent fire.
20 Explain the precautions which must be taken
when handling toxic substances in a workshop
environment.
21 When dealing with a petrol fire, which would be
the correct type of fire extinguisher to use?
22 Explain the importance of the use of a barrier
cream.
23 Name three important Acts of Parliament which
influence the working procedures in a bodyshop.
24 Explain the following abbreviations: COSHH,
EPA, HASAWA.
25 State the health hazards associated with the use
of GRP for repairs.
26 What is meant by duty of care?
27 Describe how to safely store paint.
28 Describe how you might account for waste paint
products.
29 What is PAT testing?
30 Why should you not smoke or drink alcohol when
working as a vehicle repairer or refurbisher?
Hand and power
tools
3.1 Hand tools used in body repair work
Mass production methods have made the
present-day motor car such that it requires special
techniques, skills and tools for the rectification of
body damage. Specialist tools have been designed
to suit the varying contours and shapes of the
present all-steel bodies and panels. These tools are
made of high-carbon tool steel, which is forged
and then heat treated to give long service in the
hands of a skilled body repair worker. In a body
repair toolkit the basic tools are the hammer and
dolly. All other tools have been developed around
these, giving us the specialist tools which are
now currently available. A repair job cannot be
successfully carried out before one has completely
mastered the skill of using the planishing hammer
and dolly in coordination with each other, as this
skill is the basis of all body repair work involving
the use of hand tools.
Sections 3.2 to 3.8 describe body repair hand
tools.
3.2 Hammers
Planishing hammer
The planishing or panel hammer is used more than
any other tool in the body repair trade, and for
this reason the best hammer available should be
obtained. The principal purpose of the panel
hammer is for the smoothing and finalizing of a
panel surface after it has been roughed out to the
required shape. The planishing hammer should
have a true and unmarked face, and it must be kept
polished and free from road tar, underseal and
paint, which readily adhere to its working faces
during use. This tool is designed solely to be used
in conjunction with a dolly block; it must never be
used for chiselling or any other work which might
mark or impair the faces of the hammer, for if the
face of the hammer became marked the marks
would be transferred to the surface of the panel.
These particular hammers are generally made
with one face square. This face is usually flat,
while the other, round end is slightly domed or
crowned. However, hammers are available with the
square end domed and the round end flat, or alternatively
with both faces flat or both faces crowned.
In practice the square end, which is usually flat, is
used for planishing on a curved surface of a panel,
or in corners, or against swaged recessed sections,
and the crowned end for reasonably flat panels.
The difference in the faces stops the panel surface
being marked with the edge of the hammer
when used in conjunction with the dolly block.
The weight of the planishing hammer for general
and new work ranges from 12 oz (340 g) to 16 oz
(450 g), and the handles, which are usually very
thin at the neck of the shaft for balance purposes,
are made of hickory or ash to give the hammer a
good rebound action when used with a dolly block.
Standard bumping hammer
This hammer (Figure 3.1a, b) is used for initial
roughing out of work on damaged panels. It is also
used for finalizing and finishing. The round face is
in (35 mm) in diameter and the square face is
in (38 mm) square, and the total weight is 14 oz
(395 g). The hammer is made with either flat or
crowned faces.
Light bumping hammer
This (Figure 3.1c, d) tool is ideal for work on light
gauge materials. It is used in the same manner as
the standard bumping hammer. The squared face
is 1 in (25 mm) square and the round face is in
(32 mm) in diameter, and it has a weight of 12 oz
2 13
86 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
(340 g). This hammer is also obtainable in flat or
crowned faces.
Dinging hammer
This hammer (Figure 3.2a, b) is a long-reach
planishing hammer and is designed for careful,
controlled finishing work. It is extremely well
balanced and gives a very good finish when used
correctly. Hammers can be obtained for light
or heavy work with weights from 12 oz (340 g)
to 18 oz (510 g).
Shrinking hammers
Shrinking hammers (Figure 3.2c, d, e) are similar
in design to a normal planishing hammer but have
faces which, instead of being smooth, are serrated,
giving a cross-milled effect like a file. The purpose
of these serrations is to achieve a shrinking effect
when the hammer is used in conjunction with
a dolly block. This is caused by the fact that the
contact area between hammer and metal is greatly
reduced by the serrations on the face. This tool
is used largely when beating the surface on overstretched
panel areas which have to be hot-shrunk
in order to return them to their normal contours.
Hammers are available for light or heavy shrinking,
according to the depth of the serrations.
Pick and finishing hammer
This tool (Figure 3.3a, b) is used in place of, or in
conjunction with, the planishing hammer. Its main
use is to pick up small, low areas on the surface of
a panel which is in the process of being repaired by
planishing. On panels that are reasonably flat, such
as door panels, parts of roof panels and bonnets,
this method of raising low areas is quick and, if carried
out correctly, does not unduly stretch the metal.
To lift a low area with a pick hammer, one or
two taps with the pick end of the hammer are
directed from underneath the panel under repair to
the centre of the low area. The blows stretch the
metal sufficiently to raise the surface surrounding
the point of the low spots where the blows were
struck. This slightly raised area is next tapped
down lightly with a planishing hammer or the finishing
end of the pick hammer on to a suitably
shaped dolly block, and the panel is finished off by
filing with a panel file. When one becomes proficient
in using this tool it is possible to raise the
surface with light blows and finish off by filing
only. However, without sufficient experience there
is a danger of over-stretching the metal owing to
the inability to direct the blow accurately on to the
low area under repair.
The pick and finishing hammer has a pointed
end which is suitable for removing low spots and is
also a useful finishing hammer, having a crowned
(a)
(b)
(d)
(c)
Figure 3.1 (a) Standard bumping hammer (crowned
faces) (b) standard bumping hammer (flat faces)
(c) light bumping hammer (crowned faces) (d) light
bumping hammer (flat faces) (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a)
(d)
(e)
(c)
(b)
Figure 3.2 (a) Heavy dinging hammer (flat faces)
(b) light dinging hammer (crowned faces) (c) heavy
shrinking hammer (serrated flat face) (d) light shrinking
hammer (milled flat face) (e) light shrinking hammer
(shallow milled flat faces) (Sykes - Pickavant Ltd)
Hand and power tools 87
surface on a round face of in (38 mm) diameter;
it is well balanced and weighs 14 oz (395 g).
Straight pein and finishing hammers
These hammers (Figure 3.3c, d) are used in a similar
manner to the pick and finishing hammer, but
are designed with either a straight or a curved
peined end which acts like a chisel, and a domed
round end which is used for planishing. They are
suitable for roughing out prior to planishing, or
in the finishing stages of planishing for stretching
small low areas. These hammers can be used
to dress out sections which are difficult to work
on owing to their awkward shape or position, such
as around lamp openings and in recessed and
moulded sections on panels.
Curved pein and finishing hammer
This tool (Figure 3.3e) is identical in use to the
straight pein and finishing hammer except that its
curved pein end allows for greater flexibility in
dressing out sections which are difficult to work on
owing to their awkward shape or position.
Fender bumping hammer
This tool (Figure 3.3f) has a long curved head with
one face which is circular to reduce the effect of
stretching the metal when in use. This hammer is
used for roughing out and dressing out damaged
sections on panels to restore them to their correct
shape and curvature before planishing begins. The
heavy weight of this hammer, together with the
curve, makes it very effective for hammering out
difficult and inaccessible sections.
File hammer or beating file
This tool (Figure 3.4) is designed to be used like
a hammer in conjunction with a dolly block,
although it is actually a file with a serrated face
and is suitably shaped for holding in the hand. The
milling on the file blade tends to shrink the panel
as well as leaving a regular rough patterned surface
ideal for locating low spots on the panel under
repair and for finishing with a body file. The tool
is used in conjunction with a hand dolly, and with
a glancing blow. It is most effective on large flat
sections, where it will be found ideal for smoothing
and levelling out wavy panels. Two types of
beating files are available; one is flat for use on
low- and high-crowned surfaces, while the other
is half-round in shape and is used on convex or
reverse-curved panel sections.
Mallets
Mallets can be of the round or pear-shaped type
made from boxwood or lignum vitae, or can be
(a)
(b)
(c)
(e)
(d)
(f)
Figure 3.3 (a) Pick and finishing hammer (crowned
face) (b) pick and finishing hammer (flat face)
(c) straight pein and finishing hammer (crowned face)
(d) straight pein and finishing hammer (flat face)
(e) curved pein and finishing hammer (crowned face)
(f) fender bumping hammer (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.4 Beating files (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
88 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
rubber, aluminium or plastic faced (Figure 3.5).
Some mallets have interchangeable heads so that
the correct head can be used for the material being
worked. A mallet is greatly used in the initial stages
of smoothing and roughing out of a panel prior to
planishing. When hot shrinking, the mallet is the
tool to achieve a most successful shrink because a
normal planishing hammer would tend to stretch the
metal rather than shrink it. Without a mallet, aluminium
work would be most difficult as this metal
is so easily marked and stretched. The working
faces of the mallet must be kept in first-class order,
or marks on the surface of the metal will result.
3.3 Hand Dollies
These are either cast or drop forged steel blocks,
heat treated to provide the correct degree of hardness.
The shapes of the dolly blocks have been
designed to provide a working surface that is highly
polished and suitable for use on the many contours
found on motor vehicle bodies. They are used in
conjunction with the planishing hammer or beating
file and act as a support or anvil to smooth out the
surface area of panels that have been damaged.
These dollies, together with the planishing hammers,
are the most essential tools for the panel
beating trade. Obviously one dolly block will not
be suitable for all shapes requiring planishing;
therefore it is advisable to have a set of these
dollies which would be suitable for a wide range of
the shapes and contours encountered on the everchanging
body styles of the modern motor vehicle.
When selecting a dolly block for a particular
job, it should always be remembered that as flat a
dolly block should be used as possible for the job
in hand; then the dolly will not only cover the
panel area quicker because of its bigger face area,
but will smooth out the metal without excessive
stretching. When working on panel contours it
must be borne in mind that a dolly block having a
high-crowned surface will tend to stretch the metal
much quicker than one having a low-crowned surface;
hence the choice of block depends on whether
the particular section under repair needs to be
stretched quickly or just smoothed and planished
without stretching.
It is very common for the faces of the dolly blocks
to become coated with paint, road tar, or anti-drum
compounds which it picks up from the underside of
panels under repair. This coating must be removed
from the surface of the dolly block so that when it
is used with the hammer there is a metallic contact
(metal to metal) between dolly block and work and
hammer. This contact should be heard as a ringing
noise if successful planishing is to be achieved.
Various dollies are shown in Figures 3.6 and 3.7.
Some details are as follows.
Double-ended hand dolly is conveniently designed
for a good grip with two useful surfaces, one
high crowned and one low crowned. It is ideal for
general planishing and roughing out. Its weight is
3 lb 4 oz (1473 g).
Utility dolly forms the basis of every body kit. It
offers a variety of useful faces, and is found ideal
for working in confined spaces.
General-purpose dolly is very well shaped and easy
to hold and offers wide, low-crowned faces which
are essential when working on the new body styles.
Its weight is 2 lb 12 oz (1247 g).
Heel dolly has a low flat face with radiused corners.
It is suitable for corner and angle work and is easy
to handle because of its fairly small weight of 2 lb
14 oz (1020 g).
Figure 3.5 Mallets (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Hand and power tools 89
Toe dolly combines a large flat face with a low
crown on other faces and is long and thin for easy
handling in narrow sections. The bottom face is
ground flat which adds to the versatility of this
block. Its weight is 3 lb (1360 g).
Thin toe dolly has similar surfaces to the toe dolly
but is thinner and is ideal for working in awkward
places where other dollies cannot be used. Its
weight is 2 lb 4 oz (1020 g).
Shrinking dolly block is designed for shrinking
welded seams and reducing stretched areas prior
to filling. It has a groove down the centre of the
block into which the stretched or welded seams
can be dressed. Its weight is 3 lb (1360 g).
Grid dolly is similar in shape to the toe dolly but
has a large crowned grid face on the upper surface.
The base has a plain flat face for normal finishing
work. It has been designed to act as a shrinking
dolly when used in combination with a shrinking
hammer and the application of heat. The weight is
2 lb 4 oz (1130 g).
Curved dolly or comma block has a long curved
face, combined with the high- and low-crowned
areas and the tapering face; it is extremely well
suited to the modern body design, and is comfortable
to hold in difficult areas and narrow corners.
The weight is 3 lb 6 oz (1530 g).
Round dolly is light and small and very easy to
hold. It offers high- and low-crowned faces for
work on small areas of damage. The weight is 1 lb
10 oz (736 g).
3.4 Body spoons
These tools are made from a high-grade steel which
has been drop forged and heat treated. They are
sometimes called prying spoons because the spoon
end is used in the same manner as a dolly in conjunction
with a hammer. The body spoon really
does the same job as a dolly block but is designed
for use in confined spaces where a normal dolly
block cannot be held in the hand, e.g. between
door frames and outer door panels. The spoon end,
which acts as the dolly, must be kept in good
condition and free from anti-drum compound so
that it gives a metal-to-metal contact when used
in conjunction with a hammer. The spoon can also
be used for roughing or easing out by wedging the
spoon in between panels.
Surface spoon (Figure 3.8a) has an extra large
working area which is very slightly crowned, and
it is ideal for working in between and round struts
and brackets without much dismantling.
General-purpose spoon (Figure 3.8b) is a doubleended
body spoon and is also a basic item in most
panel beaters’ toolkits. The applications for a spoon
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
(f)
Figure 3.6 (a) Shrinking dolly (b) lightweight curved
dolly or comma block (c) regular dolly (d) toe dolly
(e) round dolly (f) heel dolly (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a)
(b)
(d)
(c)
(e)
(f)
(g)
Figure 3.7 (a) Thin toe dolly (b) angle dolly (c) utility
dolly (d) general-purpose dolly (e) grid dolly
(f) double-ended dolly (g) curved dolly or comma
block (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
90 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
offering such different curves are many and varied
and meet the needs of modern body shapes.
High-crowned spoon (Figure 3.8c) has been designed
to offer a broad working blade with a high crown to
work in positions where other dollies and spoons
cannot be used.
Drip moulding spoon (Figure 3.8d) has a special
lip which can be hooked under the drip moulding
of the roof section and hence simplifies the repair.
The curved surface is fully finished to enable the
tool to be used as a short standard spoon.
Spring hammering spoon (Figure 3.9a) is a light
pressed steel spoon which is designed for spring
hammering on panels which have minor blemishes
in their finishing stages. The broad blade spreads
the blow evenly over a larger contact area, thereby
reducing the possibility of sinking the metal. This
spoon is not made for prying or levering.
Heavy-duty pry spoon (Figure 3.9b) is ideal for
heavy prying and roughing-out work. It has a long
low curved blade which can be inserted into very
thin sections.
Pry and surfacing spoon (Figure 3.9c) has a short
handle which gives easy access in limited spaces
and can be used efficiently for prying behind
brackets and panel edges.
Long-reach dolly spoon (Figure 3.9d) is a special
long-handled body spoon designed to be used in
restricted spaces between double-skinned panels
such as doors and quarter panels.
Thin spoon (Figure 3.9e) is a very special thinbladed
spoon, the blade having a very slow taper
which permits entry into restricted spaces between
double-skinned panels which would not be possible
by using a normal spoon.
3.5 Body files
Flexible panel file
This tool (Figure 3.10a) is designed with a twoposition
handle, and has a 14 in (30 cm) spring
steel backing plate to give adequate support over
the whole blade. Positioned between the two hand
grips is a turnscrew threaded left and right hand for
adjusting the blade to concave or convex positions
to suit the user’s requirements. The main use of this
stool is to assist in the final planishing of the work.
First and most important, it locates areas which
are low on the surface of the panel under repair;
second, it files out small marks or defects on the
panel surface. It can be adapted to file the surface
of almost any shaped panel by setting the blade
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
Figure 3.8 (a) Surface spoon (b) general-purpose
spoon (c) high-crowned spoon (d) drip moulding
spoon (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
Figure 3.9 (a) Spring hammering spoon
(b) heavy-duty pry spoon (c) pry and surfacing
spoon (d) long-reach dolly spoon (e) thin spoon
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Hand and power tools 91
either straight, concave or convex. The file blades
are specially designed so that they do not remove
too much metal, and the milled serrations are wide
apart and curved to prevent clogging when filing
metal which has been painted, soldered or plastic
filled. It is important to release the tension on the
file blade after use in order to reduce the risk of
breakage if it is dropped or struck by accident.
Flat file
This file (Figure 3.10b) has a solid wood holder
designed to take a standard 14 in (30 cm) blade,
which must be used in a rigid position.
Half-round body file
This tool (Figure 3.10c) is similar in design to the
flat file but the blade is half-round. It is very useful
for curved surfaces.
Abrasive file
This (Figure 3.10d) is not a normal file but an
abrasive holder with a wood handle having spring
clips at either end on to which can be attached an
abrasive grit paper. This tool is of greatest use
when rubbing down plastic body fillers to their
final finish.
Body file blades
These flexible, double-sided blades are produced
from a special alloy steel and heat treated. The
milled teeth allow a smooth filing operation and
are specially shaped to reduce clogging. The blades
are either flat or radiused according to the surface
to be filed.
Supercut blades are 8 tpi (teeth per inch) generalpurpose
standard blades.
Standard cut blades are 9 tpi and used for soft
metals such as lead and solder fillers.
Fine cut blades are 13 tpi and used for aluminium,
copper and brass.
Extra fine cut clades are 17 tpi and suitable for cast
iron, steel or any narrow section of metal.
Plasticut blades are 6.5 tpi and used for plastic
body fillers only.
3.6 Hand snips
The offset combination of universal snips is
preferred by the panel beater when cutting thin
gauge metal. Universal snips (Figure 3.11a, b) are
suitable for cutting straight lines, outside and
inside curves. A right- and left-hand pair of
combination snips will be suitable for most of the
sheet metal cutting that will be encountered by
the panel beater, and there is no need for any
curved-blade snips. When the more popular righthand
snips are used, the waste metal forms a
coil to the left of the cutting blades, thus causing
little distortion to the surface of the sheet or
panel being cut; similarly, with the left-hand pair
of snips the waste metal passes to the right of
the cutting blades, leaving the undistorted sheet
or panel on the left. Snips can be obtained in
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
Figure 3.10 (a) Flexible panel file (b) flat file
(c) half-round body file (d) abrasive file
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
92 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
varying sizes with either straight or crank handles.
A straight pair of snips is often necessary for
long straight cuts (Figure 3.11c).
Section 3.15.1 gives further information on hand
snips.
3.7 Specialist panel beating tools
Panel puller
This tool (Figure 3.12) comprises a long steel rod
with a cross T-piece at the top which acts as a hand
grip. At the other end a fixed hexagonal nut holds a
strong self-tapping screw, while a heavy cylindrical
weight can slide up and down the shaft against a
stop which is near the handle. This tool has been
designed to pull out dents and creases from the
face side of the panel without the necessity of
removing the trim and lining materials to gain
access behind the dents. It can also be used on
double-skinned panels where access is impossible
with conventional tools.
(a) (b) (c)
Figure 3.11 (a) Universal combination snips RH (b) universal combinations snips LH (c) standard pattern
straight snips (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.12 Panel pullers (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
The panel puller is used by drilling a in
(3.175 mm) diameter hole at the deepest part of the
dent, then inserting the self-tapping screw in the
Hand and power tools 93
hole and screwing it until a firm grip is obtained.
One hand holds the T-bar while the other pulls the
sliding weight towards the stop; there the weight
rebounds, forcing the dented panel out under the
impact of the blow.
Zipcut spot-weld remover
The Zipcut spot-weld remover (Figure 3.13) is used
with an electric or air drill, and is ideal for removing
spot welds on all areas of bodywork and subframes.
The cutter blade A is reversible with two cutting
edges. Adjustment B provides for varying depth of
cut so that only the upper panel is released (c), leaving
the original spot weld behind on the lower panel.
Cone drills or variable hole cutters
These are special alloy steel drill bits which
have been hardened to give a fine cutting edge
(Figure 3.14a). They are shaped like a cone and fit
in the chuck of a standard power drill. The hole
diameter can vary from 6 to 40 mm depending on
the hole cutter in use. These cutters are used for
fitting wing mirrors, aerials and rubber grommets
into body structures.
Figure 3.13 Zipcut spot-weld remover (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a) (b)
Figure 3.14 (a) Cone drills or variable hole cutters (b) cobalt drills or spot drills (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
94 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
Cobalt drills or spot drills
These are special alloy steel drills to which
cobalt has been added to give a very hard sharp
cutting edge (Figure 3.14b). The design of the
cutting edge allows spot welds to be drilled out
of panel assemblies without creating any panel
distortion.
Impact driver
The impact driver (Figure 3.15) will loosen or
tighten the most stubborn screws, nuts and bolts.
The tool is supplied with a complete range of interchangeable
bits.
Figure 3.15 Impact driver (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a)
(b)
(d)
(c)
(e)
(f)
Figure 3.16 (a) Body trim tool (b) door handle spring
clip remover (c) trim panel remover (d) door hinge pin
remover and replacer (e) corrosion assessment tool
(f) bendable files (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Body trim tool
This is a universal spring steel tool for removing
body trims and clips, and also weather strips, door
trims, headlamp fittings, windscreen clips, plastic
mouldings, motifs and badges (Figure 3.16a).
Door handle spring clip removers
These are specially designed pliers for fitting
or removing the spring clips used on many modern
door handles. One jaw sets in the neck of the
spring whilst the other grips the other end, and the
whole spring is then levered out (Figure 3.16b).
Trim panel remover
This tool is designed to remove vehicle trim
panels, upholstery and roof liners without damage
(Figure 3.16c). It also fits a wide variety of buttontype
fasteners used on vehicle trim.
Door hinge pin remover and replacer
This is designed for the removal and replacement
of hollow hinge pins used on vehicle door hinges
(Figure 3.16d).
Hand and power tools 95
Corrosion assessment tool
This tool has been designed for vehicle inspection
(Figure 3.16e). It acts as a combined tapping
hammer, blunt scraper and short lever. It has been
introduced to standardize the methods of corrosion
assessment employed by MOT testers, and is ideal
for bodyshops conducting pre-MOT checks and
assessment for corrosion.
Bendable file
This tool is a standard round file but it can be bent
to the desired shape, which allows it to be used
in difficult locations where a normal straight file
would not have easy access (Figure 3.16f).
Clamps
Sheet metal clamp (Figure 3.17a) is a generalpurpose
clamp which can be locked on to sheet
metal with a powerful quick-release grip, making
panel assembly and tack welding procedures much
easier operations.
Welding clamp (Figure 3.17b) has a powerful grip
which holds parts in alignment while leaving
both hands free for the welding operation. The
deep-throated jaws and centre opening provide the
operator with maximum visibility and full access
to the welding area.
C clamp (Figure 3.17c, d) has a wide jaw opening
with a relatively small gripping area, which produces
pressure without permanent jaw damage to
panel surfaces. It allows accurate close-up working
in restricted areas and on awkward shapes, e.g. sill
panels.
Punches
Hole punches (Figure 3.18a) have interchangeable
heads to punch holes of either in (5 mm) or in
(6 mm) diameter, and enable joining panels to be
accurately aligned for welding. The in (5 mm) 3
(a)
(b)
(d)
(c)
Figure 3.17 (a) Sheet metal clamp (b) welding
clamp (c) extra large C clamp (d) C clamp
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
(a) (b)
Figure 3.18 (a) Hole punch (b) wing punch
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
diameter hole is for gas welding or brazing and the
in (6 mm) hole is for MIG welding.
Wing punch (Figure 3.18b) is a hole punch with a
specially designed head which allows it to be used
on wing panels and channel sections and also fit
over roof gutters and wheel arches.
Edge setters
The edge setter (Figure 3.19a) is a portable, handoperated
tool designed to provide a ‘joggled’ joint
or stepped edge on a repaired or new panel, thus
96 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
creating a flush-fitting lap joint. The joggled panel
edge provides a stiff joint and helps prevent distortion
when welding. It can be used on mild steel
up to 1.2 mm (18 gauge) and applied in many situations
which require this type of joint.
The rolastep edge setter (Figure 3.19b) is
a portable tool used on the vehicle or a panel
assembly. Its rollers produce a smooth, uniform
stepped panel edge to create a flush-fitting lap
joint, allowing a panel replacement to be inserted.
Door skinner
This is a special tool (Figure 3.20) for crimping
flanges tightly on replacement door skins. It is
used by first bending the flange to an acute angle
and then tightening or crimping the flange to the
door frame. During this operation, interchangeable
tough nylon pads prevent damage to the surface of
the door skin.
(a)
(b)
Figure 3.19 (a) Edge setter (b) Rolastep edge setter
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.20 Door skinner (Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.21 Inter-grip welding clamps (Frost Auto
Restoration Techniques Ltd)
Inter-grip welding clamp
The inter-grip clamp is approximately 25 mm cube
shaped, and uses a wing nut and toggle bar to
firmly clamp pieces of metal together edge to edge
and perfectly level, leaving only a small gap which
will allow full penetration of the weld and filler
rod (Figure 3.21). Once the two sections are tack
welded together the wing nut is slackened, the
toggle bar removed and the clamp lifted from the
Hand and power tools 97
job, prior to final welding. The end result is a firstclass
butt weld requiring very little dressing. The
clamps are ideal when welding patch repairs in
floors, wings and door skinning, or when assembling
fabricated or new panels.
Temporary sheet metal fastener system
This sheet metal holding system is a set of pins,
installed with special pliers, which quickly and
easily clamps panels together before final welding,
bonding or riveting (Figure 3.22). The clamps will
securely hold together body panels and sections
where no other clamp will reach because there is
no rear access. The 3 mm blind fasteners have an
expanding pin which, when inserted through the
panel and released, exerts over 8 kg (18 lb) holding
pressure. The edge grips have 12 mm deep jaws to
clamp flanges and other edge work. To install or
remove either, the pliers are needed to overcome
the powerful spring pressure.
3.8 Recommended basic toolkits
for panel beaters
The pride of the craftsman is the set of tools he
possesses. Care of tools throughout their working
life is important. All bright surfaces should be
kept clean and free from scours and blemishes
that could be transferred to the body panels.
Stowage of tools when not in use is also important,
but this will depend on the working conditions
in the bodyshop. Wall boards with the
necessary clips and tool silhouettes can be used
with a specified set of tools. This is ideal for general
usage from a central store, as missing tools
can be quickly identified. Metal toolboxes are
most useful when each worker maintains his own
toolkit.
The apprentice, improver and tradesman will
each collect his or her own basic toolkit: suggested
sets are shown in Figures 3.23, 3.24 and 3.25
respectively.
(a) (b)
Figure 3.22 Temporary sheet metal fastener: (a) system (b) in use (Frost Auto Restoration Techniques Ltd)
98 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
replacement panels and sections are not readily
available. These specialist tools are also frequently
used in the coach building industry during the
construction of new vehicles.
Sections 3.10 to 3.16 cover fabrication tools.
3.10 Hammers and mallets
Hammers
Hammers (Figure 3.26) are still the most important
forming tools as far as the body worker is concerned,
and from the commencement of his career
he should attempt to acquire a skilful hammering
technique. The essential points to look for when
hammering are first, to hold the hammer correctly,
gripping the shaft firmly but not tightly and towards
the shank end in order to take full advantage of its
length. Second, the action should be produced by
the wrist rather than the forearm, and as strength is
developed in the wrist it will be found that it is
possible to control the hammer under all circumstances.
The hammer head should only be swung
Figure 3.24 Improver basic toolkit
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.25 Tradesman basic toolkit
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
Figure 3.23 Apprentice basic toolkit
(Sykes-Pickavant Ltd)
3.9 Hand tools used in the fabrication
of sheet metal
The panel beater often finds the need to fabricate
articles or components in mild steel, using specialist
hand tools. This need usually arises when
Hand and power tools 99
sufficiently to ensure that the metal is struck where
required using the correct amount of force.
Engineer’s ball-pein hammer
This is a general purpose hammer. Its main uses
are for riveting, chiselling, forming angles and
brackets, planishing heavy welds to refine their
structure and flattening heavy-gauge plate. The
hammer has one end round and flat and the other
a rounded ball-pein, and it usually has an ash
handle fitted into the head. It is made in a variety
of weights to suit individual needs.
Stretching and flanging hammer
This is used to form external and internal flanges
on curved surfaces by hand. The hammer is curved
with two rounded cross-peins which allow blows
to be struck at right angles in the direction of
stretching. By tilting the hammer very slightly it is
possible to gain maximum stretching on the outside
of curved work. This hammer is designed for
turning small flanges on highly curved work and
is normally used in conjunction with a stake.
Wiring hammer
This is designed for closing thin-gauge metal over
wire to form wired edges. The head of the hammer
is curved and has two very sharp chisel-like
cross-peins which allow it access to tuck down
the metal around the wired edge. It can be used
for either straight or curved wiring, and is used
extensively in the manufacture of wings made for
heavy transport.
Hollowing or blocking hammer
This is a shaping hammer which has two ballpeined
ends and is rather heavy. It is designed to
be used on mild steel in conjuctions with a sandbag
or wood hollowing block, and to create a double-
curved shape by hand. The hammer is used on
the initial stages of shaping metal, the component
normally being planished or wheeled to its final
shape.
Mallets
Mallets (Figure 3.27) come in two shapes.
Figure 3.26 (a) Engineer’s ball-pein hammer (b) stretching and flanging hammer (c) wiring hammer
(d) hollowing or blocking hammer
Figure 3.27 Round-faced mallet, pear-shaped
mallet and sandbags (F. J. Edwards Ltd)
100 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
Round-faced mallets
These are used in conjunction with steel stakes
for forming and shaping. There are two types of
mallet – boxwood and rawhide. The latter is made
in strips which are rolled and pinned in position.
Usually rawhide is used on aluminium and the
lighter metals as it gives a softer blow than boxwood
and is less liable to mark the metal. The boxwood
type is an all-purpose mallet and can be used on
either mild steel or aluminium with equal success.
When using a round-faced mallet the metal
should be struck as squarely as possible to avoid
wear on one side of the face. Care should also be
taken to avoid striking the raw edges of sheet
metal, as these could split the mallet head or damage
the faces. At all times the faces of these mallets
must be kept smooth, true and free from marks as
these could be automatically transferred on to the
workpiece.
Pear-shaped mallets
These are usually made in boxwood or lignum
vitae, which is a very hard wood and hence is
ideally suitable for this type of work. The mallet is
used in conjunction with a sandbag or wood block
for either hollowing or raising when shaping metal
by hand to a double curvature shape. The highcrowned
end of the mallet is used for hollowing
into a sandbag and the small-radiused end of the
pear shape is used for glancing blows as used in
raising. The mallet is normally used on aluminium
and thingauge mild steel. Care should be taken not
to allow the faces of the mallet to become damaged
when in use.
3.11 Sandbags and hardwood blocks
Sandbags are leather bags made from two pieces of
the finest quality leather, filled with very fine sand
and stitched together. They are available in a variety
of weights and sizes but are usually round or
square in shape (Figure 3.27). The sandbag is used
with the pear-shaped mallet or the blocking hammer
to create panels by hand to a double curvature
shape. The sandbag is resilient and at each blow of
the mallet allows the metal to shape into the sandbag.
In some instances hardwood blocks are hollowed
out to different depths and diameters. These blocks
are used in the same manner as the sandbag for
shaping metal, although the blocks are more solid
and do not ‘give’ as much as the resilient sandbags.
3.12 Sheet metal bench stakes
Quite often when making panels and parts of
panels in sheet metal, it is necessary to perform
some operation such as bending, flanging, seaming,
shaping and planishing which cannot be done
by machine. In such cases these operations will
have to be carried out by hand using bench stakes.
There are many different types of stake in use; the
smaller types are usually made from cast steel, the
heavier are of cast iron, and for special work stainless
steel stakes may be used.
All these stakes must have highly polished working
surfaces and should be kept in a dry atmosphere
to reduce the possibility of corrosion on the working
surface. Certain stakes are used only occasionally,
and to maintain a bright, smooth surface they
must be given a coating of light oil from time to
time. The condition of the stakes has much to do
with the workmanship of the finished job, for if a
stake has been roughened by hammer or chisel
marks the completed job will look rough and lack
finish. For this reason stakes should not be used to
‘back up’ a sheet of metal or a panel directly when
cutting it with a chisel; hammer blows should be
aimed with care; and a mallet should be used whenever
possible when forming sheet metal over the
stakes.
Special reinforced square holes of various sizes
are made at intervals in the bench for insertion of
the bases of the stakes, which are usually square in
cross-section and taper in shape to facilitate a good
grip in the bench. There are many different types
of stake available, and those most commonly used
are as follows (Figure 3.28):
Pipe stake consists of one or two cylindrical arms
having different diameters. This stake is used for
forming pipes and cylindrical workpieces.
Grooving stake has a grooved slot cut along the top
face. The slots are used for wiring and swaging.
Funnel stake has a thick tapered head and is used
in forming, riveting and seaming tapered articles
such as funnels.
Anvil stake has a flat, square-shaped head with
a short shank and is used for general working
operations.
Hand and power tools 101
Figure 3.28 Sheet metal bench stakes
1 Beck iron stake
2 Horse stake with heads
3 Round-bottom stake
4 Half-moon stake
5 Tinman’s mandrel
6 Hatchet stake
7 Pipe stake
8 Anvil stake
9 Side stake
10 Funnel stake
11 Grooving stake
102 Repair of Vehicle Bodies
Side stake consists of one long elliptical shaped
head. It is used for bending, seaming and forming
curved radii.
Beck iron stake has a square tapering flat head
on one side and a round tapered head on the other
side. It serves as a general purpose anvil for riveting
and shaping round and flat surfaces, straight
bending and corner seams.
Horse stake with heads has holders (the horse part
of the stake) which can take various shaped small
heads. This stake is useful in many operations for
which other stakes are not suitable.
Round-bottom stake consists of a single vertical
piece with a flat round head on top. It is used for
flanging circular and curved work.
Tinman’s mandrel is a single horizontal metal bar,
one section of which has a flat surface and the
other section of which is rounded. The flat length
has a slot cut in it which permits the stake to be
fastened directly to the bench. The stake is used for
riveting, seaming and forming.
Half-moon stake consists of a single vertical shank
with a half-rounded head on top. The stake is used
for forming or shaping curved flanges.
Hatchet stake consists of a horizontal, sharp, straight
edge, and is used for making straight sharp bends.
Panel head stake is shaped like a mushroom and is
made in various sizes. It is used for raising, tucking
and planishing.
Ball stake is shaped like a ball and is used for the
planishing of hollowed or raised articles. It is also
used for raising domes or hemispherical shapes by
mallet or raising hammer.
3.13 Hand grooving tools
The hand groover is used when making a seam
joint by hand between two pieces of sheet metal.
The end of the tool is recessed to fit over the joint
formed when the edges of the two pieces of metal
are prebent into a U-shape and interlocked. The
grooving tool is then placed over the interlocked
edges and hammered. One edge of the tool acts as a
guide while the other forces the metal down into a
crease, thus forming a groove. This crease or set in
the metal should be made gradually, the tool being
hammered while tilted very slightly in the direction
in which the crease is to be made. This will avoid
marking the metal on the opposite side of the joint
to the crease. A tool a size larger than that of the
grooved joint should be chosen to give clearance in
use. The tools are manufactured in various sizes
from in to in (3–19 mm). These grooved joints
can be used to advantage when fastening large flat
panels together as used on commercial vehicles.
3.14 Rivet sets
A rivet set is made of tool steel. A deep hole in the
bottom of the set is used to draw the rivet through
the metal sheet before riveting, and a cup-shaped
hole is used to form the finished head on the rivet.
The drawing-up hole and the cup hole are offset
slightly to the direction of the vertical hammer
blows, and therefore great care should be taken
to hold the set in an upright position when riveting.
If the tool is allowed to tilt it is liable to make
indentations on the area of the metal which has
been riveted. Hand rivet sets are made in various
sizes ranging from in to in (3.1–19 mm).
3.15 Cutting tools
Hand snips
These are used to a great extent in the fabrication
or repair side of the panel beating trade, for cutting
thin-gauge mild steels and aluminium alloys. The
limits to which these snips can cut satisfactorily,
leaving a good edge, is a thickness of 20 SWG
(1 mm) in mild steel and slightly greater thicknesses
in aluminium. Snips are available in a
variety of types and sizes and are made from the
finest tool steel forgings. The blades are ground and
set for the accurate cutting of all sheet material.
The most popular hand snips are the universal
combination snips, which are made in sizes 10 in
to 13 in (254–280 mm) with narrow or broad
blades, with straight or cranked handles, and left
or right handed. The handles are offset on the
cranked variety so that straight and curved cuts
can be made in any direction in one operation with
the sheet kept flat and the operator’s hand clear of
the metal, the cut being followed from above. The
word ‘universal’ means that this single pair of
snips can be used for cutting straight lines and
both external and internal curved edges. Standard
pattern straight snips are also very popular,
although limited in their use to straight line cutting
or large external curves. Sizes vary from 6 in
Hand and power tools 103
of the cutters. The advantage of this tool is that
it can cut sheet metal internally, and work along
either a straight or curved line by drilling a small
access hole in the metal to allow the blade to
penetrate through the metal to commence cutting.
Allowance must be made for the wastage of in
(3.1 mm) strip when cutting to a final size.
Cold chisels
These are often used by the body repair worker for
cutting out components which have been damaged,
chipping off rusted bolts which cannot be removed
by normal methods, and chiselling sections which
cannot be cut be snips or hacksaws. Chisels are
made from high-quality steel. The cutting edge is
specially hardened and tempered, while the remainder
of the chisel is left soft to enable it to withstand
hammer blows.
The chisel is subdivided into cutting edge, shank
and head. The cutting end has a wide, flat taper
and is ground on both sides to form the cutting
edge. Metal working chisels should have sufficient
length to allow the shank to be gripped properly, as
short chisels are difficult to handle and may lead to
accidents through hammer blows if the head projects
insufficiently beyond the gripping hand. On
the other hand excessively long chisels cannot be
guided so well and consequently may vibrate and
break easily. Only the cutting edge of the chisel is
hardened. When the chisel has been in use for
some time a ridge forms on its head which is called
a burr; this needs to be removed because it may
lead to accidents during use. Chisel joint angles
vary between about 30° and 60°, the sharper angles
being used for cutting softer metals. The metal
worker’s chisel is flat, and is used for working on
flat or curved surfaces of thin sheet. It is also used
for cutting solid bolts and rivets.
Hacksaws
The hacksaw is used by the body repair worker
to advantage where a clean, neat cut is required,
usually where two pieces have to be cut to form a
welded joint, and is ideal for cutting irregularshaped
panels which could not be cut with snips or
chisel. There are many different types of hacksaws,
but in general they consist of a fixed or adjustable
frame fitted with a renewable blade of hardened
Figure 3.29 Aviation snips (Frost Auto Restoration
Techniques Ltd)
to 12 in (152–305 mm). Standard pattern curved
or bent snips are designed for cutting circular outlines
and inside circles or curved shapes, as the
actual cutting blades themselves are curved. (See
Figure 3.11.)
The cutting tools known as aviation snips
were originally developed for the aircraft industry
(Figure 3.29). In contrast to the single pivot of
ordinary tin snips, aviation snips feature compound
leverage for greater shearing power, being able
to cut up to 18 gauge (1.2 mm) steel and 16 gauge
(1.6 mm) aluminium. The blades are made from
heat-treated forged chrome steel and are radiused
in order to maintain a constant cutting angle from
the back of the jaw to the front, allowing good
cutting pressure for the user.
The terms ‘left hand’ and ‘right hand’ used for
snips in this country have the continental meaning.
Left hand means that the lower blade, which should
be on the underside of the sheet of metal being cut,
is on the left-hand side. Right hand means that the
lower blade is on the right-hand side of the metal
being cut. The US reference is exactly op
