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| Part I Planning a wardrobe Etiquette The secret of being well-dressed To build a wardrobe that works PART II Clothing 1. She was wearing a blue-and-white-checked cotton dress 2. She Pulled on a flowery dress 3. And go to a London Tailor: you get better cut 4. He was smartly dressed 5. He was dressed carelessly and sloppily 6. He wore a striped shirt 7. He buttoned up his jacket 8. He straightened his tie 9. He had a pair of pointed-toes shoes on 10. She was wearing a navy blue scarf 11. Her hat was pulled well over the ears 12. She was in her pearls 13. He pulled out a yellow handkerchief of the same shade as his tie 14. She opened the umbrella 15. She leant heavily on her cane 16. Complementing people on clothes Exercises Supplementary Material |
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Part I
Planning a wardrobe
Characters: Jane, Kate, Helen students
| - , . | J. You know, Ive been invited to a party on Saturday! |
| - ? | K. Who has invited you? |
| - . | J. A friend of mine has. |
| - , ? (, ), , , . | K. It is the man we saw you with at the exhibition of American design, isnt it? He is tall (well-built, slender), dark-haired, rather handsome with an intelligent face. |
| - . , , . , . . | H. I liked him very much too. (I was greatly taken with him either). What I liked most about him were his neat and beautiful clothes. I hate when men are carelessly dressed. It shows their disrespect for the other people and reveals poor inner (spiritual) world. |
| - , . , . , . , , , , , , . . . . , . | J. I agree. (I am of the same opinion. I believe its right).I took notice of the way he dresses at once. he has few clothes but every item matches all the others (the rest). They are: a denim jacket and jeans, a cotton jacket and trousers separate trousers for winter and summer wear, a few pullovers and vests, several sport shirts and T-shirts. So you see, he wears only unofficial clothes. I like (am fond of) this style. It is quite up-to-date just the fashion for the young men. A young man in a traditional suit looks old-fashioned. I believe he may even think in a conservative way. |
| - . . , - . . , . | H. dont think so. (I should not say so). Yesterday Alec and I (me) were at the Opera House. Alec was wearing a very elegant grey suit made of flannel, a grey-blue shirt and a matching tie. It was very much to the point. Just imagine him wearing stonewashed (acid-washed) jeans, a T-shirt and training (running) shoes. |
| - . . | Alec can judge on clothes very well. It speaks well for him. It shows his good taste and high cultural level. |
| - , ? | K. What do you think of wearing at the party, Jane? (What are you going to put on for the party?) |
| - , . | J. I havent got the slightest idea (No idea). I have nothing to wear. |
| - ? , , . . - , . | K. Really? Recently youve bought a new dress, a pullover and jeans, havent you? And now, you are saying you have nothing to wear. You have a wardrobeful of clothes. Well, just this striped suit. |
| - , . | J. But Ive chosen neither a matching blouse nor a scarf (a neckerchief) for the suit yet. |
| - ? | K. And what about this long shining dress? |
| - , . . . . | J. I think it is not to the point. Ill look too pretentious in it. Itll make me look a lady. (Much older). |
| - , ? . ? | K. Helen, why arent you saying anything? You are a would-be fashion designer. What can you advise us regarding clothes? |
| - , . -, , , , . . , , , . : , . | H. Im afraid my advice will hurt you. First, Jane, you have no system in making your wardrobe. Every item of it is accidental, separate, not matching the other things in your wardrobe. You see, you spend, actually waste, too much money. You buy whatever you like and you dont think if this thing matches all the other clothes in your wardrobe. A one-time effect results in many things and nothing to wear. |
| - . , . | K. I am weak in it too. If I like some thing I buy it immediately without thinking. |
| - . , , , . . . | H. It is very important to like what you buy. But it is still more important if the garment you buy matches all the other garments in your wardrobe, if it becomes you, if it is the right thing for your character and your manner of life. You shouldnt (it is not necessary to) have many clothes at all. The main thing is that all your garments should be combinable. |
| - , , , . . | Well, for example, you may buy a plain classical (tailored) jacket made of an expensive cloth and matching skirts and trousers. Add a couple of blouses and pullovers and youll be always dressed to the point. (Your clothes will be appropriate for various occasions). |
| - ? | J. Im afraid I may look dull in such clothes. |
| - : , , , , , . . , , . | H. You can buy some fashionable accessories such as scarfs, neckerchiefs, belts, bags, hats, some adornments (ornaments). Add quality footwear. Its obligatory. These trifles will help you express your individuality, create the so-called image. |
| - ? ? . ? | K. Did you say an image, Helen? The word sounds French. What does it mean? |
| - , . , , , -. , , , () , . | Yes, it is a French word. It means a mental picture of idea, a concept of something or somebody. The person himself creates it by means of his behavior manners, speech, his clothes, (make-up) in order to produce a desirable effect on the other people. |
| - - . . | J. I dont quite understand what you mean. Could you give an example? |
| - , , : . , , , . . . . | H. Well, the simplest example is the image of a business woman. It is made by a classical (tailored) quality suit, elegant accessories, reserved make-up, a self-controlled behavior, good manners and a polished speech. The brightest example of a business woman is Margaret Thatcher. I admire her. There is not a single wrong note in her image. |
| - . , . , . | K. Ifully agree. But I think that an image is necessary (important) for a middle-aged woman. Im also fond of Margaret Thatcher but I dont want to resemble her now. |
| - . , , , . . . | H. It is not necessary at all. But still you cant be indifferent about the impression you might make upon your friends. You know the proverb Clothes make the man, dont you? It is quite topical today. |
| - , . . - ? | J. Okay. Lets stick to the point. What shall I put on (wear) on Saturday? |
| - , . , ? | H. Well, to begin with Are you going to the restaurant, to a discotheque, or just to a tea-party at the students hotel? |
| - ? . | K. Does it make any difference? She will look best of all (better than anyone else) at any place in this smart shining dress. |
| - . . , (), . . | J. It is my boy-friends sister birthday party. She is a student. She has invited her fellow-students. I believe it wont be good (it will be improper) to wear a better dress than the hostess does. It is her name-day and she must be the centre of attention. |
| - . . , , , . , . . - . ? , , . . () . | H. Yes, you are quite right. This dress is not worth wearing at the party. It is better to put on your favourite simple dress which you have already tried and worn. Youll feel comfortable in it, youll be sitting, standing and dancing quite naturally. Lets have another look at your wardrobe. Perhaps well find something else. Well, this tailored suit looks too official, the skirt-waister dress is too ordinary because of the fabric. Oh, whats this? A fine crepe de Chine, a nice pattern and colour, but the neck is too low. Youll be unsuitably dressed for the time of the year and youll look light-minded in this dress. Youd better put on this mauve silk dress fitting in the waist (with flared skirt) with one-sided fastening. |
| - . . | K. But it doesnt look festive at all. Perhaps, you should use (put on) some accessories. |
| - , . , . | J. Of course, Ill put on a red scarf and red gloves. I also have red shoes, a red bag and a red hat. |
| - ! , . , , . . , , , . - . | H. Isnt it just awful! Red and mauve is a harsh, vulgar combination. Besides, it is an outdaten view that all accessories must be of the same colour. You see, a couple is quite enough. For example, there may be shoes and a hat of the same colour, or gloves and a scarf or a hat and a neckerchief. Put on this pink silk scarf and this pink fancy adortnment. |
| - ? . | J. And what about shoes Ive got only red and grey ones. |
| - ? ! . | H. You say, you have grey shoes. It is great! A neutral colour matches practically all the other colours and doesnt need another thing of the same colour. |
| - . . . . . | K. Well, then, try it on. Oh, I like it. The dress is awfully becoming you. It makes you look slender and matches the colour of your eyes. And this pink scarf emphasizes your warm complexion. |
| - ! , . ! | H. You look fantastic! You are so charming, young and fresh. Have a nice time! |
It is Interesting to Know.
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Etiquette
The clothes of a lady
Do you know how to wear clothes? The first impression that we make upon others depends entirely upon what we wear and how we wear it.
The woman who knows how to wear clothes is like a stage director who skilfully presents herself. The sense of what is becoming and the knack of putting clothes on well are the two greatest assets of smartness and both are acquirable by anyone willing to look at herself as she really is!
Following fashion has little in common with beauty
Fashion has the power to appear temporarily in the guise of beauty, though it is the antithesis of beauty as often as not.
There is one unchanging principle which must be followed by everyone who would be well-dressed-suitability and not being dressed to the minute and following every turn of latest fashion blindly.
Vulgar clothes
Vulgar clothes are those which no matter what the fashion of the moment may be are always too elaborate for the occasion. They are too exaggerated in style, or have accessories out of harmony with dress and the wearer.
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The woman who is chic
The woman who is chic is always a little different. Not different in being behind fashion, but always slightly apart from it.
The woman who is chic adapts the fashion to her own personality. This is in contrast to the one who will merely buy the latest hat or dress and adapt herself to it, whether the fashion is suited to her or not.
How many jewels
It has always been the rule not to wear too many jewels in public places, because public display is considered poor taste.
Since jewelry is after all ornamentation, glass makes quite as effective trimming as gems and, like all the other trimmings, can be overdone. Women wear the earings at breakfast lunch or dinner without the least discrimination in their size or value.
Clothes for the afternoon
The hours between one and six are occasions when important day dresses are appropriate. If you have few clothes, you may perfectly well wear the simplest est sort of day dress in which you look well.
You need never worry because you are not dressed as much as the others: the time to worry is when you are over-dressed!
At a formal lunch party in town people usually wear worsteds or dull silks made with tailored simplicity. The same is true for an afternoon tea or concert. For a cocktail party day dresses are correct. A dinner dress is permissible only when worn by an intimate friend who has stopped in quite late, on her way to a dinner party.
When in doubt
There is one rule that is fairly safe: when in doubt wear one plainer dress. If you dont know whether to put on a ball dress or a dinner dress, wear the dinner dress or whether to wear wool or velvet to a lunch party, wear the wool.
Shall I wear a hat?
Notwithstanding the continued practice of certain younger women to go hatless on all occasions best taste exacts that in a city a hat should be worn with street clothes in the daytime. In fact it is impossible for a hatless woman to be chic. With an evening dress a hat is incorrect except on the stage in a musical review.
Gloves
Always wear gloves as well as hat on the street in a city. Always wear gloves in a theatre, in a restaurant when you go to lunch, or to a formal dinner. Always take them off when you eat. The question of length and color is one of transient fashion and personal taste. A lady does not take off her gloves to shake hands, no matter when or where, and never apologizes for wearing gloves when shaking hands.
Hostess less dressed than guests
A hostess should be less elaborately dressed than her guests, but her clothes may be more formal in type. For example, she should wear a semi-evening dress, when she is giving a cocktail party or a tea to which other people come.
Meaning of semi-formal
In communities where the tail coat is worn semi-formal means dinner jackets (tuxedos) and simple evening dresses. But whenever men wear business suits women should wear afternoon not evening-dresses. A mans business suit is actually as unbecoming to a womans evening dress as his hat would be on her head.
Clothes for the business women
The first requirement is neatness. The unfailing directions for clothes worn in an office are that they should be tailormade, smart to the least degree and in perfect taste. Above all, avoid wearing clothes that need constant arranging.
Also wear clothes that properly cover you. Conspicuous as well as transparent clothes are entirely out of place in business. In hot weather very short sleeves are permissible, but not cut-out armholes or low back.
Neat, beautifully done hair, but no little-girl effect of hair hanging loose is in best taste. One important accessory for beautiful business clothes is a pair of plain sensible shoes designed to give proper support to the foot. High-heeled, fancy sandal and slippers not only are inappropriate and extravagant but ruinous to any foot that must be much stood upon.
Tell us how to look our best.
- Must our clothes be becoming?
- Is it necessary to follow every turn of fashion?
- What must we avoid not to look vulgar?
- What should we do to be chic?
- How many jewels can a woman wear?
- What is the way out if we are in doubt what clothes to put on?
- How should a business woman dress?
The secret of being well-dressed
No matter how or how little money you have to spend, never buy any new clothes before going through your existing wardrobe to see whether you need them or not. But your wardrobe ought to contain certain essentials, and if it does not, you must plan your whole budget to include them.
Nearly every woman has to economize these days in order to include in her wardrobe at least come cheaper suits and dresses. When you buy your clothes, go in for simple, well-cut suits and dresses that will look right for almost any occasion. Concentrate on styles that are not expensive but elegant and remember that the keynote of all goods dress-making is simplicity. Dont be led astray by frills, elaborations and passing crazes unless you have an income suited to them.
A winter coat is a basic need and, although it may be an expensive item, it is not extravagance, because it should be wearable for several seasons. Fashion in big coats rarely changes more than once in four or five years and even then you can safely lag behind, provided you choose undatable style. Dont invest in a fur coat unless you can afford the best of its kind. Choose a cosy-looking big coat in any material that suits you the hairy fabrics are the latest, but remember that youll tire of them more easily than the smoother woolens.
A well-cut suit is another essential. If its lines are plain, it wont go out of fashion for several years, and it will continue to look good to the very end of its days. You can prolong its life by having an extra skirt to divide the wear and tear because jackets always outlast skirts. An extra dress is a perennial must with women. The short evening dress is a much better than the long one for nine out of ten women. The lines that dont date are the simple ones. Dont exaggerate in padding your shoulders.
With color you can be as daring as you like nowadays. Colour combination are also very muchin favour now, but remember that a blue-eyed blonde would look uninteresting in pale blue because her eyes will be lost in the expanse of blue of her dress. Yellow, cardinal red and even black or white would suit her best. Blue is best on a dark-haired girl especially royal blue.
Remember that the clothes in which you feel happy are always the most successful clothes.
Remember that Enemy Number One both to chic and charm is untidiness. You can get away with a dress that is neither new nor expensive but down-at heel shoes, grubby-looking gloves, collar or cuffs, a creased skirt completely ruin the effect of a model dress no matter how expensive it may be.
Tell us what we should do to be well-dressed
- Do you think the more money you spend on clothes the better you are dressed?
- How many clothes do you need to be well-dressed?
- Must your clothes be expensive?
- Are good clothes simple or elaborate?
- What are the essentials of the wardrobe?
- What do you think are the most successful clothes?
